The Guitar Show (Show yours)

[el-bo (formerly ebow)]

Please do.

I used to have only one guitar that i poured myself into. In many ways I missed those days.

admira malaga - ec with shadow p3b pickup…needs new strings and some tlc

[wavephonic]

haven't bought a new guitar in ages so thought I'd show the new addition. nothing special, schecter diamond, just liked the inlay
has the knob switch for gain, still not sure of the science behind it, maybe someone here can enlighten me.

[Hink]

haven't bought a new guitar in ages so thought I'd show the new addition. nothing special, schecter diamond, just liked the inlay
has the knob switch for gain, still not sure of the science behind it, maybe someone here can enlighten me.

does it have a battery in it?

[wavephonic]

good question, will check

edit: nope, no battery, when I pull the knob up it disengages and I hear a bit less gain and top end

[nix808]

Love that!

Is it possible to use non-Gibson pickups with it? Will anything work?

It's beautiful, hey.
I'll take a pickup out and shoot a photo.
It will take any double coil-
I have to try and find the clippy connection bit though.
I will get my Duncans back in July- plan to set them up as swappable.

[JCJR]

Am curious because a long time ago I read that it is difficult to pound stainless frets into a conventional neck, and ferinstance the chapman stick guy had to use non conventional materials, so he claimed, in order to get stainless frets to stay in place?

I got a cheap Chinese electric many years ago with stainless steel frets and they've stayed in place with no problems.

Thanks Uncle E. What I had read long ago, said that when it comes to pounding in stainless frets, they are too springy and on conventional wood fingerboards, one end pops out as the other end is pounded in. Guess if that info was at all accurate, then it was at least somehow incomplete.

One friend who plays a LOT, has to get new geetars or have the neck reworked every few years because the brass frets wear out, but another old pro who plays just as much, claims hardly any wear. That fella claims that the secret is to make sure to play "almost on top" of the frets to minimize the strings' "metal sawing" action on the frets, but it seems difficult enough to finger anywhere between the frets, much less having to target "nearly on top of the frets".

[ew]

Pardon the crappy photo; it's from my FB page.



My '95 Gibson EDS-1275. The only guitar I own that's completely stock.
Surprisingly enough, it has a one piece body as far as I can tell.

ew

[JCJR]

Tapper, is your import parker neck sealed in composite like at least the early usa parkers? Am very ignorant of geetars but like my early usa nitefly. Might post a picture, but it is just a 100% factory standard strat style white usa nitefly, just like old catalog pictures.

So that would make yours a P38?

No mine doesn't have the composite seal/ cook and press job that American models do (I wish)

Thanks Tapper

I can't find any numbers on my Parker. It is either first or second year of manufacture.

[tapper mike]

good question, will check

edit: nope, no battery, when I pull the knob up it disengages and I hear a bit less gain and top end

Then it is most likely a coil tap.

Early electric guitar pickups were "single coil" and conventional single coil pickups are still on the market. A humbucker (your pickups) employs two coils one reverse wound to the other. Single coils can generate hum. The humbucker two coil design defeats the hum hence called a humbucker.

For some the single coil sound is still desirable as it is deemed to have a more focused "crisp/nasal" quality while humbuckers in general have a more "full" "throaty" quality. A coil split will dis engage one of the coils for a single coil sound with the potential for hum. A coil tap on the other hand "taps" the wire at a different wrap point. A coil tap sound thus has a reduced output (like that of a single coil) and a thinner sound without the hum.

[tapper mike]

Tapper, is your import parker neck sealed in composite like at least the early usa parkers? Am very ignorant of geetars but like my early usa nitefly. Might post a picture, but it is just a 100% factory standard strat style white usa nitefly, just like old catalog pictures.

So that would make yours a P38?

No mine doesn't have the composite seal/ cook and press job that American models do (I wish)

Thanks Tapper

I can't find any numbers on my Parker. It is either first or second year of manufacture.

Yours is definately not a "P" "P" were the korean imports Yours is definately an early Nitefly. The separate stereo/mono switch gives that away.

http://www.parkerguitars.com/images/sto ... _GUIDE.pdf

Nitefly's are great guitars I'll grant you that. Though I still have a softspot for the original Fly's with the set (actually more like neck through) design. The two humbuckers that are mounted directly to the neck w/out the ring. Though I'd settle for a later (still made in Philly) Supreme like this guys.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5xG363APnk

[JCJR]

Here's something you don't see every day, my only other electric geetar. It is a Goya 335-ish clone from the 1960's. It didn't have a bridge when I got it, so the replacement is a simple ebony wood bridge that works surprisingly well.

The pearlite tipped radio buttons at the top, select the obvious combinations of the front and rear split single coil pickups. The three push buttons at the bottom are passive tone control buttons,

Has a woody-percussive overall sound, and the neck is in surprisingly good adjustment. Good for certain kinds of chickin-pickin. With the bizarre single-coil pickups, doesn't sound anything like a 335 of course.

[wavephonic]

got it, appreciate the info, thanks. seems like it might be useful

good question, will check

edit: nope, no battery, when I pull the knob up it disengages and I hear a bit less gain and top end

Then it is most likely a coil tap.

Early electric guitar pickups were "single coil" and conventional single coil pickups are still on the market. A humbucker (your pickups) employs two coils one reverse wound to the other. Single coils can generate hum. The humbucker two coil design defeats the hum hence called a humbucker.

For some the single coil sound is still desirable as it is deemed to have a more focused "crisp/nasal" quality while humbuckers in general have a more "full" "throaty" quality. A coil split will dis engage one of the coils for a single coil sound with the potential for hum. A coil tap on the other hand "taps" the wire at a different wrap point. A coil tap sound thus has a reduced output (like that of a single coil) and a thinner sound without the hum.

[Hink]

This guitar is a Daion Power Mark XX I have owned now for about 7 years (bought it from muff wiggler). The craftsmanship is exquisite (though this one could use some refinishing which is not my best area of guitar repair), it was handmade in Japan (Daions were around from the late 70's into the early 80's).

Stock it came with big chrome knobs but I have them put away and put on the knobs it has because I think it looks better. This neck-thru design is very cool, especially with the guitar being a "string through the body" type guitar. The guitar itself is made from 14 pieces of rosewood and maple, it has Seymour Duncan pick-ups in it (SH-4 &TB-4) wired with on/on/on so I have parallel/split/series (those switches stock were parallel/series), it also has an artec QDD2 pre-amp (where on tone control would be)and an artec active eq). Sorry for the flash in the pic blurring the pick-ups...the silver on the back on the lower left is not silver, it's black and where the jack plugs in..why it looks silver I have no idea)

I took a new pic because when I bought it it did not have a truss rod cover but now indeed sports a Power Mark XX truss rod cover

[tapper mike]

This guitar is a Daion Power Mark XX I have owned now for about 7 years (bought it from muff wiggler). The craftsmanship is exquisite (though this one could use some refinishing which is not my best area of guitar repair), it was handmade in Japan (Daions were around from the late 70's into the early 80's).

Stock it came with big chrome knobs but I have them put away and put on the knobs it has because I think it looks better. This neck-thru design is very cool, especially with the guitar being a "string through the body" type guitar. The guitar itself is made from 14 pieces of rosewood and maple, it has Seymour Duncan pick-ups in it (SH-4 &TB-4) wired with on/on/on so I have parallel/split/series (those switches stock were parallel/series), it also has an artec QDD2 pre-amp (where on tone control would be)and an artec active eq). Sorry for the flash in the pic blurring the pick-ups...the silver on the back on the lower left is not silver, it's black and where the jack plugs in..why it looks silver I have no idea)

I took a new pic because when I bought it it did not have a truss rod cover but now indeed sports a Power Mark XX truss rod cover

Damn early washburn falcon incarnate. FujiGen Gakki (which produced Daion) and Matsumoku were doing joint production back then.

[polyslax]

Some lovely axes around here!

Here are my babies…

This is a Nik Huber Krautster. One humbucker, the volume knob pulls up to coil tap. Bought new in 2013.





And my Ovation Elite, with bridge piezos. Bought new in… 1988 I think.