Anyone have a fix for computer noise in guitar amp from audio interface?

Anything about hardware musical instruments.
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sprnva wrote:I'm running outputs 3+4 from my Scarlett 6i6 into the front of my JC-40
Just checking: google suggests JC-40 is a Roland Jazz Chorus 40W guitar amp. That's correct?

One check I did myself: outputs 3+4 of the Scarlett 6i6 are technically identical to outputs 1+2. That is: these are balanced outputs on 1/4" TRS.
sprnva wrote:I can hear hard drive activity etc as static noise in the amp. I don't hear it in my studio monitors connected to outputs 1+2 or in my headphones.
What you have just confirmed is that this phenomena is only present when the JC-40 amp is added to the equation. And if there is indeed a ground loop (quite plausible) then you need to look at the cables connected to that thing. There's just two. Or three, depending how you count:

1: mains power. Gotta be the 3-prong type, so with ground. This ground is half the cause. Break it here, and the loop is broken. What surely helps is literally cutting the ground connection of the amp, but that's not advisable for an amp that is directly connected with bare metal strings you are firmly holding in your sweaty hands. So that's no option. You did try a variation on this:
sprnva wrote:Running an extension cable in from another room and connecting either the amp [...]
That could have helped if mains power in the other room was wired to a different ground pin (that literally goes into the ground) but in most houses there's just one. Sometimes for the kitchen or bathroom there's a separate one.

So for the mains connection we're out of safe options. That means we have to look at the other wire:
2. Audio wires, of which you have two (left & right) so that makes three in total. The balanced output of the audio interface go into presumably unbalanced inputs of the amp. I wrote presumably because electric guitars rarely ever have balanced outputs.

What works is hum elimination boxes. These provide galvanic isolation. That is, the signal has to pass a transformer. These have nice properties: alternating currents do pass (by induction of nearby coils) but decent currents cannot pass. And since it's the direct connection of the ground wire giving the loop problem, hum destroyers will work.

But there's a cheaper option! Make use of the fact that the interface provides balanced outputs (plus, minus and ground) while the amp only needs two out of these three. What can work is a special cable:
* at the interface side leave the ground disconnected, but Tip & Ring are connected.
* at the amp side Tip goes to Tip, but Ring goes to both Ring & Sleeve (or just Sleeve of a mono plug)

Or stated in another way: take a regular guitar cable. Take off the mono plug from one side. Put back a stereo plug. On the stereo side connect the cable shield not to sleeve but the Ring of the plug. This way the ground at interface side is not connected, but the other two conductors are connected.

Or stated in another way: take a regular balanced TRS cable. Take off the stereo plug from one side. Put back a mono plug. On this mono side leave the cable shielding disconnected (also don't let it touch the casing)
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Thanks for the advice Bert.

I don't like the idea of disconnecting the ground as some people suggest. For obvious reasons, it's not a good idea :)

Your cable rewiring ideas sound good though. I'll have to try those at some stage (don't have a soldering iron handy). Assuming it works, I think buying this hum eliminator box is the best solution as it means I can fix this issue anywhere down the line without requiring modified cables.

I cleared it up in a later post, but the reason I only get the noise in the amp is because my monitors are connected with balanced cables. So there may have been a ground loop without adding the amp, but the cables took care of it. As guitar amps don't have balanced inputs, the cables I'm running out of the interface to it are unbalanced and are thus open to carrying the noise from the ground loop.
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I had a similar problem a few years ago. Drove me nuts. It turned out to be due to a faulty USB cable.

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The Behringer Hum destroyer arrived earlier and I've been trying it out.

It clears up most of the computer noise I was getting in the amp (sometimes I can still hear some faint noise when loading up projects in Live). There's still a high pitched whine which it doesn't fix. I'm assuming it's also computer-related as I don't get it with the iPad. I can EQ it out, but then that kills the top end.

Speaking of the iPad, one "weird" thing I find is that with the hum destroyer connected I get a "faulty cable" type buzz in the amp when I connect the Scarlett to the iPad. If I disconnect the USB cable from the Scarlett I get the same noise. If I connect the Scarlett back to the computer it's gone. :ud:

It's a lot less fuss running the iPad headphone out directly into the amp (using an iRig Pro for guitar input instead of the Scarlett), which is why I was asking about it here. But that means having to do a little more cable swapping, whilst before all I had to swap was the USB cable into the Scarlett. I have more and better tools on the computer, but I haven't given up on using the iPad just yet.
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This might not be the problem, but I'm gonna throw it out there.
The guitar amp is expecting you to plug a guitar in, so it's expecting a source with high impedance (guitar pickups) putting out a certain voltage range. You're giving it a low impedance source (probably an op amp) putting out a voltage that who knows what level it's at. Plugging a low impedance source into a high impedance input is generally ok, but 1) it'll probably sound different than if you played the exact same thing using the guitar straight into the amp because of the impedance mismatch 2) you might be causing or exacerbating the noise by doing this

Look into a reamp box!

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...first things first, check in the specs of your audio interface that the line input of it is 1 mOhm impendance, which is what's needed for guitars (Hi-Z). Some audio interfaces have it, others don't.

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Yeah I haven't really gotten to grips with impedence yet. A reamp box sounds like what I should be using. Balanced in and Hi-Z out. I can't go buying a new one blind right now but I'll keep an eye out for a deal on something like the Radial ProRMP. I've also seen suggestions of using a passive DI box in reverse to achieve something similar.

I'm still curious about the best way to use the iPad headphone out with an amp.

@EvilDragon: The 6i6 has an "inst" setting on the inputs for connecting guitars. So I'm guessing that's the Hi-Z setting.
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I am a bear of very little brains, but a worthwhile experiment might be to use the line-out (if you have one) of your interface -> into your amp instead of outs 3+4.

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Ok, I managed to borrow a XLR-to-jack cable. Unbalanced, alas, but it let me try out a couple of things with my passive DI box.

The ground lift on the DI box filters out about as much noise as the hum destroyer, but I think there may be even more noise with the DI box in the chain. The unbalanced cable may be partly to blame here. I can still hear some faint hard drive activity in the amp and I still get that whine around 8KHz.

With the DI box in reverse mode, I can set the (now) output to instrument or speaker level. On instrument level it's MUCH louder. With the input gain on the Scarlett all the way down, I get about the same level in the amp with the reverse DI set to instrument as I get with the guitar straight into the amp. With the input all the way down, I can still run the guitar through effects in Live but obviously can't record into it. So if I just wanted to use the computer as a multi-fx unit, this would probably work.

If I want to record into the computer, I need to switch the DI box to speaker level first and then turn up the Scarlett's input about half-way. But with this, I get a lot more noise in the signal. With the hum destroyer the signal is cleaner and stronger sounding. Alternatively I could keep it on instrument and turn the master level way down in Live, but then audio quality will likely suffer because I'll have the master at something like -20dB.

So the hum destroyer is doing well so far. For recording, the DI box isn't really a suitable alternative to it. Next will be to try and get my hands on a reamp box, but that could take a while and if it works I'll need two to keep my setup stereo.

@Protocol_b: There's only four identical balanced outputs on the 6i6. I did try 1+2 just to see if there was any difference, but there wasn't.

Update: After finding this comment, I wrapped some electrical tape around the usb cable and the whine is gone!
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sprnva wrote:Update: After finding this comment, I wrapped some electrical tape around the usb cable and the whine is gone!

very interesting, bookmarked, thanks.

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Ahhh, USB grounding issues... always a beauty! :D

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I thought all usb cables are the same?





































:hihi:

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I dunno if I ever would have found that out by myself!

I still need the hum destroyer to clean up the computer noise in the amp. Taping the end of the cable only fixes the whine. It may be an issue unique to the 6i6 or Scarletts, but I guess if anyone encounters a similar high-pitched whine it'd be the first fix to try.

So compared to where I was last week, things are sounding a lot better now :)
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