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VST, AU, AAX, CLAP, etc. Plugin Virtual Effects Discussion
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rustman wrote:
Thanks Andrew. I guess I was probably asking if you use non-red/green images, does KS see them as separate red and green channels that combine to create whatever colors the eye is seeing?? Looking at those color channels separately in PS might reveal that there isn't much brightness for each of those individually but they combine (along with blue) to create the total brightness (which could be misleading when looking at the plain image. Regardless, I get what you said. I'd be more pleased at this point to get the brightness/volume interesting and even consider using external processing to handle L/R panning. ...or perhaps two instances with the images slid slightly offset for one, red and green respectively. More experimenting ahead. The weekend is near....

as described in the manual, color/hue in computer graphics is based on the additive principals of light. Computer graphics use Red, Green, and Blue channels. Standard computer graphics use 8-bit per color channels. so each channel has a value from 0 to 255.

0, 0, 0 = black
255, 255, 255 = white

255, 0, 0 = Red
0, 255, 0 = green
0, 0, 255 = blue

128, 0, 0 = red, but 50% reduced in brightness/amplitude
0, 128, 0 = green, but 50% reduced in brightness/amplitude

255 , 255, 0 = Yellow, max brightness
128, 128, 0 = yellow, but 50% reduced in brightness/amplitude

255, 128, 0 = Orange
128, 255, 0 = "lemon lime, green-yellow"

The only colors you should see in a completely "to spec" image for KS should be something between Red and Yellow, and something between green and yellow. Like "fall foliage" if you will... ;-) No blue leaves, at least on earth AFAIK...

If you see white, it contains blue. If you see grey it contains blue. It you see pink, it contains blue. If you see cyan it contains blue. If you see blue, well that should be obvious... :D

Blue is not used by KS at the moment... so if you make images with lots of blue in them, it might be confusing when the imported result diverged from the expected result... It does not break anything. It just might not be what you expect.

Why do we use Red and Green? Bc this is what other apps use, and this is what my AV1 content was already designed in, and we think it is nice to be able to share content without extra work. We use two color channels, one for Left and one for Right, so we must pick two. So why not use the two that other people already use instead of trying to be different? It really does not matter.

Why do you see other colors inside KS? Bc I generally think using blue and green instead of red and green, is a little easier on the eyes, and looks better within most hosts. So we can remap the used color channels to any two of three possible choices... And some days you just might feel you need a little pink, so there is a magenta color scheme also. We won't tell anyone if you use the magenta scheme. Our secret. :D I think it looks cool sometimes. And you can use the R-G-yellow scheme too if you like...

In photoshop you can remove all blue from your images by using the "Chanel Mixer", going to the blue channel, and setting all values to 0.

It is also a good idea to "normalize" the images. In Photoshop, Auto-Contrast will accomplish this...
Last edited by Andrew Souter on Fri Mar 06, 2015 4:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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That was a great reply and much appreciated. I use the magenta scheme, but flex in the mirror and growl to compensate (not that there's anything wrong with that).
When I get off work, today is B2 day. I'm studying that today.
In rotation here: Hammock- Stranded Under Endless Sky

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rustman wrote:That was a great reply and much appreciated. I use the magenta scheme, but flex in the mirror and growl to compensate (not that there's anything wrong with that).
HAHAHAH :clap: :clap:

Excellent strategy! :D
rustman wrote: When I get off work, today is B2 day. I'm studying that today.
cool

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Galbanum wrote: ...

In photoshop you can remove all blue from your images by using the "Chanel Mixer", going to the blue channel, and setting all values to 0.

It is also a good idea to "normalize" the images. In Photoshop, Auto-Contrast will accomplish this...
Another way to do this is to open the RGB channel panel, select blue and fill the blue channel with black.
Don't forget to select RGB when done or the image will look black.

For Normalizing, I usually just use the Adjust Levels commands. Normalizing give the most gain spread - most dynamics.

Some useful Photoshop filter effects are Extrude (which makes things blocky), Glowing Edges which can create contours, Ripple to create washes, etc. You can Fade the effect to mix it with the original.
Jim Hurley - experimental music
Windows 10 Pro (20H2 19042.662); i9-9900K@5.1GHz;
Cakewalk; Adam Audio A8X; Axiom 61

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arachnaut wrote:
Galbanum wrote: ...

In photoshop you can remove all blue from your images by using the "Chanel Mixer", going to the blue channel, and setting all values to 0.

It is also a good idea to "normalize" the images. In Photoshop, Auto-Contrast will accomplish this...
Another way to do this is to open the RGB channel panel, select blue and fill the blue channel with black.
Don't forget to select RGB when done or the image will look black.
If I'm reading you right this won't achieve the same effect. This, I think, is the same as flattening the blue curve.

What you will end up with is yellow pixels where you had blue pixels.

The channel mixer method that Andrew mentioned, basically subtracts the blue channel from the each of the RGB channels and merges the result. In this case you will end up with black pixels where you had blue pixels.

Neither is particularly desirable, when forced upon your image, which is why I have found it very important to design images from scratch to only contain Red, Green, Yellow and Black, with the latter two exactly where you want them.

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For me personally, all of the above is great info. Bet there's more of us reading along. My strategery for the moment is to use existing found images and modify them. This means largely converting the existing colors in the images into useful ones and trying to get black where obvious blue is. Since blue is ignored, it may as well be black, but when considering other colors as RGB, there's blue in there that is affecting things that might not be apparent on first glance. I'm making a point to look at the blue channel and see what's there.
In rotation here: Hammock- Stranded Under Endless Sky

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lnikj wrote:
arachnaut wrote:
Galbanum wrote: ...

In photoshop you can remove all blue from your images by using the "Chanel Mixer", going to the blue channel, and setting all values to 0.

It is also a good idea to "normalize" the images. In Photoshop, Auto-Contrast will accomplish this...
Another way to do this is to open the RGB channel panel, select blue and fill the blue channel with black.
Don't forget to select RGB when done or the image will look black.
If I'm reading you right this won't achieve the same effect. This, I think, is the same as flattening the blue curve.

What you will end up with is yellow pixels where you had blue pixels.

The channel mixer method that Andrew mentioned, basically subtracts the blue channel from the each of the RGB channels and merges the result. In this case you will end up with black pixels where you had blue pixels.

Neither is particularly desirable, when forced upon your image, which is why I have found it very important to design images from scratch to only contain Red, Green, Yellow and Black, with the latter two exactly where you want them.

That is true. Mixing preserves more information than just removing blue.

If you use images from nature, you will see that there is usually not a lot of blue channel info and the eyes are not so sensitive to blue - so I use the way I do.

If you've generated 3 channel images algorithmically and want to keep the third channel you will have to mix.

But if you generate them algorithmically, what are you intending to do with that third channel? Its easier to think about left and right as red and green, and maybe use blue as 'center'. That's what channel mixing will do - move blue to the center (equal parts to red and green).
Jim Hurley - experimental music
Windows 10 Pro (20H2 19042.662); i9-9900K@5.1GHz;
Cakewalk; Adam Audio A8X; Axiom 61

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arachnaut wrote:[
That is true. Mixing preserves more information than just removing blue.

If you use images from nature, you will see that there is usually not a lot of blue channel info and the eyes are not so sensitive to blue - so I use the way I do.
Totally agree on that. If you run the channel mixer method on a photo you will be lucky to retain much information at all.

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Here is an example of an algorithmically generated image to set up a Risset-like glide.
One channels resonators ascend over time, while the other channel descends.
This is a first-cut experiment - the sections in the image need to be tweaked a bit for the overtones to coalesce and give the desired effect. I just spent a few minutes on this, surely you can do better.

Image:
http://www.arachnaut.net/2C-Audio/Kalei ... eter01.png

Preset:
http://www.arachnaut.net/2C-Audio/Kalei ... eter01.2ca

Here is what the image looks like:
Image
Jim Hurley - experimental music
Windows 10 Pro (20H2 19042.662); i9-9900K@5.1GHz;
Cakewalk; Adam Audio A8X; Axiom 61

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arachnaut wrote:Here is an example of an algorithmically generated image to set up a Risset-like glide.
One channels resonators ascend over time, while the other channel descends.
This is a first-cut experiment - the sections in the image need to be tweaked a bit for the overtones to coalesce and give the desired effect. I just spent a few minutes on this, surely you can do better.

Image:
http://www.arachnaut.net/2C-Audio/Kalei ... eter01.png

Preset:
http://www.arachnaut.net/2C-Audio/Kalei ... eter01.2ca
Thanks - is it possible to zip that 2ca file, as usual Safari sabotages it by adding a txt extension (it does this all the time)

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aMUSEd wrote:
arachnaut wrote:Here is an example of an algorithmically generated image to set up a Risset-like glide.
One channels resonators ascend over time, while the other channel descends.
This is a first-cut experiment - the sections in the image need to be tweaked a bit for the overtones to coalesce and give the desired effect. I just spent a few minutes on this, surely you can do better.

Image:
http://www.arachnaut.net/2C-Audio/Kalei ... eter01.png

Preset:
http://www.arachnaut.net/2C-Audio/Kalei ... eter01.2ca
Thanks - is it possible to zip that 2ca file, as usual Safari sabotages it by adding a txt extension (it does this all the time)
Try again, I just set the mime-type for '2ca' to be 'text/plain' on the server. That should work for every browser.
Jim Hurley - experimental music
Windows 10 Pro (20H2 19042.662); i9-9900K@5.1GHz;
Cakewalk; Adam Audio A8X; Axiom 61

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In that Risset example, I suppose the tuning function could be explored to get the best overtone overlap.
You want the new sequence to start as the previous sequence reaches something near the center frequency.
Jim Hurley - experimental music
Windows 10 Pro (20H2 19042.662); i9-9900K@5.1GHz;
Cakewalk; Adam Audio A8X; Axiom 61

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Thanks that does it.

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I forgot one thing about the Risset effect. It's not just the descending/ascending harmonics - the output level have to have an ascending and descending level. As one harmonic reaches a peak, it is at a lower level and the next harmonic enters at a higher level.

That's not exactly phrased right, you can look up the effect.

The point is that I need to alter the color levels in a precise way. I'll think about this some more...

Also the image should be tile-able so that it can be moved with no disjoints.

KS Version 1.0.2 image offset sliders don't seem to work, I have to grab the image to move it.
Jim Hurley - experimental music
Windows 10 Pro (20H2 19042.662); i9-9900K@5.1GHz;
Cakewalk; Adam Audio A8X; Axiom 61

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I called this a Risset tone - usually it's actually called Shepard Tone. I thought Risset discovered it.
Jim Hurley - experimental music
Windows 10 Pro (20H2 19042.662); i9-9900K@5.1GHz;
Cakewalk; Adam Audio A8X; Axiom 61

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