Building a custom power PC - processor question
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- KVRist
- Topic Starter
- 275 posts since 22 Sep, 2013
- Disconnecting the AI from the motherboard USB and connecting it to the chassi USB instead did not work
- Re-installing the drivers completely did not work
- Disabling the USB Selective Suspend Setting did not work
- Adjusting the global (global = for the whole OS, not just the DAW) buffer size for the AI did not work
I'd love to try the RATT but I can't find it on the computer, internet, or the CMD (not sure how to search for it on CMD either).
I've noticed that the spikes come in pairs, it's like they fade in, reach a qlimax, and then fade out again, and then nothing happens for 30 seconds or so - and this only happens when there's audio going out.
There is one thing I've had in the back of my head for a while regarding this issue, and it's the fact that I don't think this AI is grounded. It's powered with the USB connected to the computer. I'm thinking of grounding it to the computer chassi or something and see if that does something, just to try it. However it still can't be that since I didn't have this issue with my previous computer.
I'm starting to think that there's simply a glitch going on with this driver version...
- Re-installing the drivers completely did not work
- Disabling the USB Selective Suspend Setting did not work
- Adjusting the global (global = for the whole OS, not just the DAW) buffer size for the AI did not work
I'd love to try the RATT but I can't find it on the computer, internet, or the CMD (not sure how to search for it on CMD either).
I've noticed that the spikes come in pairs, it's like they fade in, reach a qlimax, and then fade out again, and then nothing happens for 30 seconds or so - and this only happens when there's audio going out.
There is one thing I've had in the back of my head for a while regarding this issue, and it's the fact that I don't think this AI is grounded. It's powered with the USB connected to the computer. I'm thinking of grounding it to the computer chassi or something and see if that does something, just to try it. However it still can't be that since I didn't have this issue with my previous computer.
I'm starting to think that there's simply a glitch going on with this driver version...
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- KVRAF
- 1676 posts since 17 Dec, 2002 from Yorkshire
I noticed the thread continues.VariKusBrainZ wrote:Try disabling the USB selective suspend setting under power options
1. i would definitely check varikus suggestion.
2. you may try stripping of the setup to absolute minimum ie ram, cpu, hdd, and the audio interface removing external video card, dvd/cd, wifi, networking etc (if cannot be done physically disable in device manager) and see what happens.
3. worth checking if the audio interface firmware is the latest too. same applies to motherboard (bios).
4. also if time allows check if the same behaviour persists on different OS.
bear in mind that all recommendations i have made are more educated guesses rather than actual troubleshooting.
- KVRAF
- 9569 posts since 16 Dec, 2002
Also go to Device Manager and disable anything that isn't required
Eg Bluetooth, LAN, wireless,DVD drive, on board sound etc
Google or check manufacturer forum to see if anyone else has similar problem with the same OS
Eg Bluetooth, LAN, wireless,DVD drive, on board sound etc
Google or check manufacturer forum to see if anyone else has similar problem with the same OS
Amazon: why not use an alternative
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- KVRist
- Topic Starter
- 275 posts since 22 Sep, 2013
UPDATE: The crackles ad pops are caused by the Wireless Adapter, I've tried deactivating it and reactivating it in the device manager, and not only did the pops disappear when it was deactivated, but the pops went crazy the first second after I've reactivated it, and then went back to the normal popping problem.
The question now is - is this a hardware or software issue? Meaning...
- Is this issue because of poor network drivers for the Wireless Internet Card?
- Is this issue caused by interference inside the speakers/AI/etc from the wireless signal?
The question now is - is this a hardware or software issue? Meaning...
- Is this issue because of poor network drivers for the Wireless Internet Card?
- Is this issue caused by interference inside the speakers/AI/etc from the wireless signal?
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- KVRian
- 512 posts since 4 Dec, 2015
Glad you sorted this out. The best way to answer that is to update the drivers and see if the problem goes away.
Win 7 | Dual Xeon x5680 | 48 GB RAM | Saffire Pro 40 | Yamaha HS50 monitors |Cubase 8.5 Pro|
Kevin DiGennaro
Kevin DiGennaro
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- KVRist
- Topic Starter
- 275 posts since 22 Sep, 2013
There are no newer drivers for this unit right now. In fact it seems like it haven't been optimized for Windows 10... One the box it says Windows 8theEmbark wrote:Glad you sorted this out. The best way to answer that is to update the drivers and see if the problem goes away.
It's still odd that this glitch only happens when there is audio coming out from the AI. I tried playing a Spotify song, notice the pops, then I cut the volume, and the pops also become quieter.
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- KVRian
- 512 posts since 4 Dec, 2015
It's possible that it is still a software compatibility issue but without a fix from the manufacture you're kind of out of luck. Are you still able to return the TP card? If I was you I'd probably order a new card that's made for Windows 10. If the problem goes away return the TP card.
Win 7 | Dual Xeon x5680 | 48 GB RAM | Saffire Pro 40 | Yamaha HS50 monitors |Cubase 8.5 Pro|
Kevin DiGennaro
Kevin DiGennaro
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- KVRist
- Topic Starter
- 275 posts since 22 Sep, 2013
I've taken a good look and I found no Wireless Adapter that is compatible with Windows 10 at all... I just feel that Windows 10 is still too new, so no new products have been launched built for it.
All of them are for Windows 8 maximum, and so is the card that I have right now.
I'll just send TP-Link an email about this and hopefully there will be a solution.
All of them are for Windows 8 maximum, and so is the card that I have right now.
I'll just send TP-Link an email about this and hopefully there will be a solution.
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- KVRian
- 512 posts since 4 Dec, 2015
What is the specific model of the tp card?
Edit: you need to check the actual manufacture websites. Here is TPs compatibility chart with Windows 10
http://www.tp-link.com/en/article-15587.html
Edit: you need to check the actual manufacture websites. Here is TPs compatibility chart with Windows 10
http://www.tp-link.com/en/article-15587.html
Win 7 | Dual Xeon x5680 | 48 GB RAM | Saffire Pro 40 | Yamaha HS50 monitors |Cubase 8.5 Pro|
Kevin DiGennaro
Kevin DiGennaro
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- KVRian
- 512 posts since 4 Dec, 2015
Haha yeah the only luck I've had with them is in hackintosh builds. They just always seem to have bugs like this.
I'd return it and get something else but check the manufacture site for compatibility first.
I'd return it and get something else but check the manufacture site for compatibility first.
Win 7 | Dual Xeon x5680 | 48 GB RAM | Saffire Pro 40 | Yamaha HS50 monitors |Cubase 8.5 Pro|
Kevin DiGennaro
Kevin DiGennaro
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- KVRAF
- 1929 posts since 4 Nov, 2004 from Manchester
Drivers for the wireless card, your seeing poor DPC latency at play here. Change to another brand, I use Edimax myself as all their drivers tend to be DPC issue free, but I'm not sure how wide spread they are as a brand where you are.steffeeH wrote:UPDATE: The crackles ad pops are caused by the Wireless Adapter, I've tried deactivating it and reactivating it in the device manager, and not only did the pops disappear when it was deactivated, but the pops went crazy the first second after I've reactivated it, and then went back to the normal popping problem.
The question now is - is this a hardware or software issue? Meaning...
- Is this issue because of poor network drivers for the Wireless Internet Card?
- Is this issue caused by interference inside the speakers/AI/etc from the wireless signal?
As a side note RATT can be a pain to setup and Latency Monitor ( http://www.resplendence.com/latencymon ) can spit out most of the same info that RATT provides (or at least the critical info) and points at the failing drivers, but it sounds like you've already nailed though trail and error.
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- KVRAF
- 1676 posts since 17 Dec, 2002 from Yorkshire
instead of a wifi card you may consider usb wifi stick. i found them causing less troubles and they do not occupy pcie slot. of course it depends on strength of the signal from your router. linksys ones are ok (no problems) but a bit slow, tp ones are fairly fast but as mentioned above tp is less reliable in terms of drivers. frankly, going with cable connection would be the best way to go (if possible of course).
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- KVRAF
- 4205 posts since 21 Oct, 2001 from my bolthole in the south pacific
Seriously, wifi on a DAW is one headache you could do without. Running an ethernet cable is going to make for fewer grey hairs - I guess it depends on the layout of your digs whether that is an easy thing to do or not.
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- Banned
- 5357 posts since 7 May, 2015
I could. But this room is cooler and quieter than the den (which is the only place I can have the router and this computer at once)egbert wrote:Seriously, wifi on a DAW is one headache you could do without. Running an ethernet cable is going to make for fewer grey hairs - I guess it depends on the layout of your digs whether that is an easy thing to do or not.