Pictures of your builds!

...and how to do so...
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justin3am
KVRAF
11006 posts since 7 May, 2006 from Southern California

Post Mon Jun 20, 2016 10:20 am

SJ_Digriz wrote:Hey Justin, how do you like the Thomas White LPG? I have the triple in MU and I've finished 2 of them. It has been on the bench waiting for me to do the 3rd for quite awhile. I should go finish it. I put VTL5C3's on the first two and putting VTL5C4's on the 3rd (supposedly :P ).

Anyhow, just wonderer how you implemented the summing? There were a couple of options on the pcb.
I like it! It has a very different sound to my QMMG and Optomix (my only other LPGs). I'm using VTL5C3/2s which I got from Synthcube, though I'm ordering some more Vactrols as part of the xvive group buy (being organized on Muff's), I want to try some VTL5C1s as I'd really like a faster response (closer to my Optomix). The filter mode sounds awesome, especially at high resonances.

I've done something a bit different with the summing stages, as I've done a lot of pre-patched routings behind the panel. I'm summing two inputs on the second channel (the jack input and a switch which selects the output from the wavefolder, the output of the second oscillator or the output of the first LPG channel, the last connection gets broken if the output for that channel is connected at the front panel). The mix output on the Dual LPG comes from the first LPG channel, and is a mix of the two LPG channels (these connections are broken if the outputs are connected at the front panel).

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justin3am
KVRAF
11006 posts since 7 May, 2006 from Southern California

Post Mon Jun 20, 2016 10:24 am

antto wrote:Image
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That is pretty awesome! I had the boards/parts bundle for the Yocto but ended up selling it. I want to build a drum machine but I'm not really looking for 808 sounds. The Nava 909 looks pretty awesome, though I ended up building some Hex Inverter kits to build my own modular drum machine (paired with a BeatStep Pro).

How do you like the Yocto so far?

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antto
KVRAF
2524 posts since 4 Sep, 2006 from 127.0.0.1

Post Mon Jun 20, 2016 10:30 am

303 + 808 is one of the nice combos

i've mostly heard 808 as part of sample packs, i've used samples from the 808 instruments so frequently in my tracks
now that i built this, it somehow strongly reminds me of the 303.. it has some very nifty synthesis in there, the clap is one example..
It doesn't matter how it sounds..
..as long as it has BASS and it's LOUD!

irc.freenode.net >>> #kvr

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SJ_Digriz
KVRAF
6001 posts since 5 Jul, 2001 from Just about .... there

Post Mon Jun 20, 2016 11:38 am

justin3am wrote: I want to try some VTL5C1s as I'd really like a faster response (closer to my Optomix).
lol, I prefer the slow sqooshy sound. But, I was considering going 2,3,4s fast/medium/slow just for variety. I'll have to ruminate on it some more. Hadn't considered 1s.
I'm summing two inputs on the second channel (the jack input and a switch which selects the output from the wavefolder, the output of the second oscillator or the output of the first LPG channel
Interesting, I did something similar with 1 and 2. One of the reasons I paused the build was to decide how I wanted 3 to work sum when the various sections were jacked.
The last connection gets broken if the output for that channel is connected at the front panel). The mix output on the Dual LPG comes from the first LPG channel, and is a mix of the two LPG channels (these connections are broken if the outputs are connected at the front panel).
With 3, I'm wondering if I want to always have the sum out and only break at the the individual outputs. Obviously much harder to patch that. But more flexible. Or just have sum or break across the board.
If you have to ask, you can't afford the answer

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justin3am
KVRAF
11006 posts since 7 May, 2006 from Southern California

Post Mon Jun 20, 2016 5:48 pm

SJ_Digriz wrote:With 3, I'm wondering if I want to always have the sum out and only break at the the individual outputs. Obviously much harder to patch that. But more flexible. Or just have sum or break across the board.
In most cases, I would agree that it's more desirable to have the normalled connection always happen at the input jack (so that outputs can be used as passive mults) but from my experience with the QMMG, I find that it's nice to be able to break the connections with the mixer, by connecting a cable to the output, to exclude a channel from the mix.

In my case, the mixer inputs on the LPG are fed from the switch on the output jack but the outputs are also wired to other places in the synth voice (Out1>Osc2 LinFM, Out2>Crossfader input A) and those connections are only broken at the corresponding input jack. I've spent a lot of time thinking about where I can use switched jacks and where I need to use panel switches. When I have to use panel switches, I'm mostly using three-way switches, so I can get more variation in the routing.

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SJ_Digriz
KVRAF
6001 posts since 5 Jul, 2001 from Just about .... there

Post Tue Jun 21, 2016 3:00 am

justin3am wrote:When I have to use panel switches, I'm mostly using three-way switches, so I can get more variation in the routing.
Hmm .. now there's an idea I should have thought of. Thanks!
If you have to ask, you can't afford the answer

Compyfox
KVRAF
14412 posts since 19 Oct, 2003 from Berlin, Germany

Post Tue Jun 21, 2016 7:21 pm

Not necessarily a "build", but a somewhat repair job and I also added a small mod.


The following pictures are from a no name 5W Guitar Training Amp that's been sitting on my shelf for quite a while now (it's not mine, it's one of a couple of devices/instruments that were given into my care and hasn't been picked up since). The main issue why I never used it: the potentiometers were worn out. I did not even dare look at it without the amp exploding in scratchy noise. Using it without hearing protection was not a good idea. So it remained on the shelf, and started to waste space. Prior to that, the owner hasn't used it in ages either (neither did he care much). After nearly 5 years of collecting dust at my place, I had enough - and I needed a distraction anyway.

So I completely put this thing apart (wouldn't have gotten to the circuit board otherwise) and then not only exchanged the potentiometers (had to widen the holes a bit as well, though it turned out I could have gotten 1:1 replacements - but one of the employees at Conrad, Germany had a different opinion!), redid some solder joints and some of the wiring (mainly the one to the speaker driver), but also added a slight mod where I can now disconnect the hardwired speaker to connect a different one or an attenuator/a loadbox instead.

This thing is still scratchy and jumpy, the input gain and volume correlation makes no sense, I can't raise the tone to higher than 5 (12o'clock) else this thing starts to squeal. But at least it's not completely wasting space anymore.

I also realized that I didn't need the dip switch, since the 1/4" TS jack that was sold to me had a NC function (normally closed), which I saw way too late. But since it was only a couple of cents, I ignored that and added the switch anyway (looks more "technical"). Had so many of them lying around that would have never been used otherwise. Looks like, communication at the hardware store is key. Some people do pay attention to detail and ask questions, some just give a flying F and give you what they think is a suitable replacement. I think I got the latter this time around - which is always annoying of course (unnecessary extra work).


Anyway - pictures.


A before:

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After widening the holes and adding two more for a switch and a 1/4" TS jack

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Finished soldering job:
(this is where I also realized, that this amp has been opened way before my time - the PSU was cut of, and badly "soldered back together", the circuit board also had very bad soldering spots)

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This was after I put everything together again:

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Not beautiful, neither perfect. Read: I didn't fix all issues - only changed the potentiometers, else I wouldn't have been able to even "listen" what's going on with this device. I do have a suspicion that either the transistor or one of the capacitors is still broken/worn out. Though I'll probably never open this thing up anymore - just not worth it. But if I'm not in the mood to fire up the PC (DI, software - all bells and whistles) and just want to train some chords, or want to create some insane noises with an "external distortion device" (which this thing really isn't - it's not even crunchy in tone!) - then this thing is usable again.

Occupied a couple hours of my time (in both a good and bad way - think 6 hours incl. breaks - hated drilling the holes with a cordless drill driver), I could brush up my skills. Really lightened my mood, and I could easily repair something without pulling my hairs out.


At least one project out of of many planned DIY ones that got finished - even if it took me years. Success! :tu:


On to the next one...
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justin3am
KVRAF
11006 posts since 7 May, 2006 from Southern California

Post Fri Jun 24, 2016 7:17 am

Nice little amp repair. Thanks for the before and after pics. I have an amp which needs some love as well, I think it's just the caps at the input stage. Maybe I'll get to that over the weekend.

If the amp squeals at certain settings, I'd definitely start by replacing the electrolytic caps. Shouldn't be too much work. :)

Compyfox
KVRAF
14412 posts since 19 Oct, 2003 from Berlin, Germany

Post Fri Jun 24, 2016 7:39 am

Thanks, though after I've "experienced" this whole thing (read: completely disassembling) and know what a PITA this is... I'm happy that it works like it does and I'll probably NEVER open it up again.

I was told that this thing was bought used, and it clearly showed after opening it up. There were f*cked up soldering joints (some bridges that shouldn't be there - but I left them since I didn't have a circuit diagram of this thing), the PSU was cut off and then soldered back together "haphazardly" (well, proper connections, but they looked like arse - take note of the red shrink tubing), the battery ports (third way to power this) was oxidized and that thing was stored in a dry environment...

I also assume that the caps are worn out... but I am happy that I even got this thing to work again. I think dusk crawled into the pots, and this resulted in the constant crackling while even looking at it once it was turned on. Now I can at least change the input gain and output volume without getting ruptured eardrums. And the tone at middle position is the best/balanced one anyway. It only squeals if I have the input gain lower than point-7 or so... so I don't mind. It's a training amp after all - but one I'd never invest more than 20 bucks max used in reality (I did invest like 5-10 bucks for the new pots, some wire, the new jack and a leftover switch)


I added the mod in case I want a different speaker or an attenuator / a loadbox. The latter will be a huge topic for me personally in the future (hint hint). And honestly - I did a well enough / professional looking job with a limited sets of hand tools. So I'm happy how this thing turned out, even if I'll barely ever use it.

But hey... the "owner" might be happy to use it again. Then again - he hasn't used it in 10 years either. So... yeah.
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justin3am
KVRAF
11006 posts since 7 May, 2006 from Southern California

Post Sun Jul 17, 2016 11:44 am

pics of this weekend's project:
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I built this MXR Distortion+ clone for a coworker. I actually tried to measure the drill holes this time but I totally f**ked it up anyway... I gave myself a D- :hihi:
I really need a drill press.

The DPDT switch selects silicon or germanium diodes.

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Hink
Rad Grandad
32167 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine

Post Sun Jul 17, 2016 11:56 am

justin3am wrote:pics of this weekend's project:
Image
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I built this MXR Distortion+ clone for a coworker. I actually tried to measure the drill holes this time but I totally f**ked it up anyway... I gave myself a D- :hihi:
I really need a drill press.

The DPDT switch selects silicon or germanium diodes.
I almost hit edit instead of quote :hihi:

I've built a couple of kits from GGG and not got the box then ordered the box from Mammoth and had to squeeze the board in too...my blues breaker the board has to be flipped upside down and put on the cover...it's been waiting for the final install for about two years now :oops: ...I should finish it because it's blue with silver Marshall knobs :tu:
Now I'm old, I puff my pipe
But no-one's there to see
I ponder on the lesson of my life's insanity

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justin3am
KVRAF
11006 posts since 7 May, 2006 from Southern California

Post Sun Jul 17, 2016 12:09 pm

I almost hit edit instead of quote :hihi:
Yeah, I've done that. :lol:

I got the PCB, pots, knobs, germanium diodes and box from Tayda, most of the other parts I had on hand. The Tayda 1590b clone box is okay but the knobs feel really cheap.

Yeah it's tricky to get everything to fit in these 1590b boxes. If I had drilled the holes right, I might have been able to mount the PCB properly but :shrug: I'll be working on a modded Fuzz Factory (7 knobs!) next and that will definitely need to go in the 1590bb.

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SJ_Digriz
KVRAF
6001 posts since 5 Jul, 2001 from Just about .... there

Post Sun Jul 17, 2016 12:15 pm

nice one j3.

@Hink .. that's so funny I have the parts for a Blues Driver sitting on the bench forever. I think I'm missing something or other .. got onto to other stuff, now I'd have to spend a few hours just figuring out where I'm at and what I need, so it never quite happens.
If you have to ask, you can't afford the answer

Terrafractyl
KVRist
352 posts since 15 Nov, 2005 from Melbourne Australia

Post Sun Jul 17, 2016 2:14 pm

That mx4 distortion pedal is the ducks nuts.
I build one for my modular and couldnt believe how good it sounds, for such a simple build to!

Nice work Justin, loving your builds!

Ive just started reconstucting my home made modular after 8 months of it being in storage.... soo good to have some knobs in my life again!!

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(theres lots in there but the all stars would be, Teezer osc, 2x T Henry555oscs, Dual spring reverb, stereo panning mixer, Blacet time machine, Buchla 281, 291, 258, Serge ADSR, Serge Wavefolders, Hexinverter midi-cv, Mankato filter, Moog filter, Korgasmatron, mx4, cgs tube vca, doepfer s and h, cgs digital noise and more i cant think of right now....

and I've got these badboys lined up waiting to be added next ;
Haible Tau pipe phaser, Serge VCFQ, MOTM 440 and Dual CLee Resonant Lpgs

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Hypnagog (Experimental Electronica) |
Terrafractyl (Psytrance) |Kinematic Records (Label)

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justin3am
KVRAF
11006 posts since 7 May, 2006 from Southern California

Post Sun Jul 17, 2016 2:53 pm

Holy shit! Fantastic work!
Those panels look really nice, and so does your case. :tu:

Yeah, the Distortion+ is my favorite for synths and bass. I built the Hex-inverter battery acid as well, but on that I used red LEDs and germanium diodes. The LEDs sound the best IMO. :D

I'm stuffing a R*S/Serge VCFQ as we speak. I hope to get some more "thonkiconn" jacks next week, so I can finish it.

I'm thinking about getting into some 4u/banana stuff but probably not until next year. Once I'm done with my DIY eurorack project, I'm probably going to build some rack effects. I have schematics for some nice pre-amps, EQs and compressors and I may be crazy enough to try building them, point-to-point on perfboard.

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