Any tips on cutting a scratchplate/pickguard?
Got a replacement for my strat copy that doesn't quite fit (neck recess too shallow mainly). Quite a brittle three ply tortoise shell one (ie. not the material a normal white one is made from).
I'm guessing the finer the junior hacksaw blade the better (removing the big areas) then file down? Have got a rotary tool so can finish off with that maybe.
Thanks.
Guitar scratchplates
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- KVRAF
- Topic Starter
- 7748 posts since 13 Jan, 2003 from Darkest Kent, UK
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- KVRAF
- 16977 posts since 23 Jun, 2010 from north of London ON
mmmmm...depending on how brittle that material might be you might want to use a very fine blade on that then just sand down from there. If you are using a dremel tool with that be careful to not overdo the sanding..those plates do get pretty warm....
Barry
If a billion people believe a stupid thing it is still a stupid thing
If a billion people believe a stupid thing it is still a stupid thing
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- KVRAF
- Topic Starter
- 7748 posts since 13 Jan, 2003 from Darkest Kent, UK
you think there could be a danger of the plate melting? Hadn't considered that... Thanks.trimph1 wrote:If you are using a dremel tool with that be careful to not overdo the sanding..those plates do get pretty warm....
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- Rad Grandad
- 38044 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
I use a dremel with a cutoff wheel on a slower speed...yes there is a little melting but it is the chip that meltst and melts back onto where you cut it and typically does'n not affect the cut. After that I use one of those white buffing wheels to clean it up (be careful those white wheels will remove material as well)
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- Rad Grandad
- 38044 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
if you're going to use a saw use a coping saw and not a hack saw.
OT but in my 52 years I have met less than a dozen people (besides teachers and other students I went to school with) that know how to use a hack saw. For instance most people cut as fast as possible and I have won many a bet (when I was a kid) over this. Cutting most metals the optimum stroke rate is 55 strokes a minute and if you go real fast you dull the blade too fast and will take longer to cut (aluminum and softer metals are a different story to some extent because the blade dulls slower). Also hacksaws only cut on the forward stroke so relieve your pressure on the return stroke (there are some carbide blades that cut in both diretions but chnaces are most users wont have them).
To select the proper gauge (fine, medium etc) the rule of thumbs is that atleast three teeth are in contact with the material...so if you're cutting thin plastic you need a very fine blade or it will chip when each tooth hits the plastic. This is true with coping and hack saws but coping saws will cut in both directions.
OT but in my 52 years I have met less than a dozen people (besides teachers and other students I went to school with) that know how to use a hack saw. For instance most people cut as fast as possible and I have won many a bet (when I was a kid) over this. Cutting most metals the optimum stroke rate is 55 strokes a minute and if you go real fast you dull the blade too fast and will take longer to cut (aluminum and softer metals are a different story to some extent because the blade dulls slower). Also hacksaws only cut on the forward stroke so relieve your pressure on the return stroke (there are some carbide blades that cut in both diretions but chnaces are most users wont have them).
To select the proper gauge (fine, medium etc) the rule of thumbs is that atleast three teeth are in contact with the material...so if you're cutting thin plastic you need a very fine blade or it will chip when each tooth hits the plastic. This is true with coping and hack saws but coping saws will cut in both directions.
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- KVRAF
- Topic Starter
- 7748 posts since 13 Jan, 2003 from Darkest Kent, UK
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- KVRian
- 1020 posts since 4 Jun, 2006
I cut a Fender 3ply pickguard from a blank sheet. I used a router for the cutting, and a small file to butt fit the p-90 pickups. Its quite easy stuff to work with. I haven't got many pics online at the moment, only these.
Original guard testing router.
Router Template
P-90 hole Template
Finished Pic of guard mounted
Original guard testing router.
Router Template
P-90 hole Template
Finished Pic of guard mounted
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- KVRAF
- Topic Starter
- 7748 posts since 13 Jan, 2003 from Darkest Kent, UK
That's really nice, I think the knob arrangement would drive me mad (very sloppy player, would be forever knocking them 
) but still very cool.
So, tackled mine the other day; turns out the fretboard overhang was a lot longer than I thought and I only had to shave a couple of mms from the plate with a curved needle file. Material was a lot softer than I imagined too when actually working it.
Will post pics once restrung.
) but still very cool.So, tackled mine the other day; turns out the fretboard overhang was a lot longer than I thought and I only had to shave a couple of mms from the plate with a curved needle file. Material was a lot softer than I imagined too when actually working it.
Will post pics once restrung.
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- KVRian
- 1020 posts since 4 Jun, 2006
It is actually quite an easy material to work with. I was initially afraid it would fracture or chip. It also holds a good edge and it bevels well, I can see why they use it.GaryG wrote:That's really nice, I think the knob arrangement would drive me mad (very sloppy player, would be forever knocking them
So, tackled mine the other day; turns out the fretboard overhang was a lot longer than I thought and I only had to shave a couple of mms from the plate with a curved needle file. Material was a lot softer than I imagined too when actually working it.
Will post pics once restrung.
I play tested the guard design for about a month with a cardboard one to make sure the knobs and switch was clear. I have long arms so pick slightly towards the neck from the neck pickup. I was worried more about hitting the switch but don't go anywhere near the pots.
