M-Audio controllers put out jumpy values?

[Sendy]

M-audio footpedal, and the mod wheel on my Axiom Impulse 61?

Can you confirm this problem is with the M-Audio Axiom, or the Novation Impulse?
Confused by this name of the Axiom Impulse, as there is no such thing.

The dodgy foot pedal is M-audio and the keyboard is the Novation Impulse. For some reason both the Axiom and the Impulse have fused together in my mind, as I got the Axiom and had it for a while, and it had the same problem, plus it was the foot pedal jumping about that got me to write this post. It says Novation quite clearly on the keyboard but in my mind I figured they were connected with M-audio.

Bottom line: probably best to avoid all three products, or not listen to me at all

[mcnoone]

M-audio footpedal, and the mod wheel on my Axiom Impulse 61?

Can you confirm this problem is with the M-Audio Axiom, or the Novation Impulse?
Confused by this name of the Axiom Impulse, as there is no such thing.

The dodgy foot pedal is M-audio and the keyboard is the Novation Impulse. For some reason both the Axiom and the Impulse have fused together in my mind, as I got the Axiom and had it for a while, and it had the same problem, plus it was the foot pedal jumping about that got me to write this post. It says Novation quite clearly on the keyboard but in my mind I figured they were connected with M-audio.

Bottom line: probably best to avoid all three products, or not listen to me at all

Understood.
Though I'm now planning on buying a Novation Impulse25, after a bad experience with this Samson Graphite controller, where the aftertouch died within the first half hour of use, and the action is that sponge like synthy action of a roland after 30 years of constant use. I felt the Novation had pretty good semi-weighted feel and action. Even if I tried the stores floor model, which probably had a lot of use. Still felt solid.

[Sendy]

The keys are very well built, but to be honest, for triggering samples, they're a bit too heavy and tiring for my liking. They're great for playing piano and keyboard sounds, but a lot of what I do involves experimental triggering of samples and other stuff, and I like to play as much as I can live, so this keyboard can really wear my fingers out.

What I'll probably do is keep the Axiom for playing piano/keyboard patches, and get a synth action board for everything else.

[AKMusic]

Everyone is confirming their disdain for M-Audio products but c'mon, really? What planet do you people live on??
EVERYTHING in this world is sold with a built-in "shelf and use life". How do you think companies intend to stay around. They certainly don't stand a chance if the product they sell never breaks. "Quality" is actually leased or rented... not purchased. The warranty you get with a product is made to only extend the life of your product for another 90 days!!!!!!

So... I came here because I too, am suffering from the Mod-Wheel "Jumpity/Stickity Syndrome". The reason I came here was to find out how someone fixed theirs... but instead I came to a M-Audio Whiners Anonymous Group.
Back in the day... people just fixed their shit. Which is what I'm going to do. I take things apart and fix them (if possible). I'm not a technical wizard... but everything (usually) was built and designed by a human and so with perseverance, can be researched, analyzed, torn apart and resolved. Then if I break it completely... it justifies buying a new one but damned if I'm going to throw away anything and spend several hundred dollars more without attempting to fix it first. That's just stupid and lazy. A lot of times, potentiometers and sliders are easily corrected by cleaning it with potentiometer (electronic cleaner) spray because the contacts gets dust and oxidation on them over the years... Go to your hardware store and buy a can for $5. Or go buy another MIDI controller for $250-$500 and send me your "broken" one!!!!!!!!

[thecontrolcentre]

A friend of mine bought an m-audio USB dj mixer/controller. What a piece of crap that was. Supposed to be class compliant, the latency from the crossfader and the knobs was ridiculous. Unusable.

[justin3am]

A lot of times, potentiometers and sliders are easily corrected by cleaning it with potentiometer (electronic cleaner) spray because the contacts gets dust and oxidation on them over the years... Go to your hardware store and buy a can for $5.

This may work for pots and sliders but don't try this with encoders!
Also, if you are going to use Deoxit , use F5 (Fader Lube) not D5. D5 will strip the lubrication from the pot and can result in deterioration of the carbon element inside the pot. Even F5 should only be used as a last resort (I have come to find, from experience). Sometimes dirty old pots can be restored simply by turning them back and forth 20+ times, very quickly.

[chk071]

Everyone is confirming their disdain for M-Audio products but c'mon, really? What planet do you people live on??
EVERYTHING in this world is sold with a built-in "shelf and use life". How do you think companies intend to stay around. They certainly don't stand a chance if the product they sell never breaks. "Quality" is actually leased or rented... not purchased. The warranty you get with a product is made to only extend the life of your product for another 90 days!!!!!!

So... I came here because I too, am suffering from the Mod-Wheel "Jumpity/Stickity Syndrome". The reason I came here was to find out how someone fixed theirs... but instead I came to a M-Audio Whiners Anonymous Group.
Back in the day... people just fixed their shit. Which is what I'm going to do. I take things apart and fix them (if possible). I'm not a technical wizard... but everything (usually) was built and designed by a human and so with perseverance, can be researched, analyzed, torn apart and resolved. Then if I break it completely... it justifies buying a new one but damned if I'm going to throw away anything and spend several hundred dollars more without attempting to fix it first. That's just stupid and lazy. A lot of times, potentiometers and sliders are easily corrected by cleaning it with potentiometer (electronic cleaner) spray because the contacts gets dust and oxidation on them over the years... Go to your hardware store and buy a can for $5. Or go buy another MIDI controller for $250-$500 and send me your "broken" one!!!!!!!!

I hardly ever read so many wrong things in one post. Do you really believe those things? The only reason why they build in cheap components is to keep costs down, not because the hardware should have an estimated "shelf and use-life". They just buy cheap components, build them in, and hope for the best. Simple as that. And nobody's whining here, rather complaining about the quality of M-Audio's components. And no, i am not obliged to fix it myself, what kind of attitude is that? Why not just build your own midi controller with such an attitude.

Weird post really.

[EnGee]

Yes I agree with the above. It's just bad quality due to very cheap materials and poor manufacturing.

For me, I had a very bad experience with M-Audio Oxygen 3rd gen. The same as others, random midi msgs, shit pitch/mod wheels, ...etc. Before that I've got very good experience with Edirol/Roland. I won't ever buy those crap keyboards from M-Audio, Novation, Alessis, ...etc. I don't know about Korg taktile though.

So, if I want to buy a good midi controller, I would only think of Roland. Otherwise, I just buy Yamaha/Casio home keyboard with midi support in the cheap or save to buy a nice arranger from Yamaha, Korg or Roland. There are sometimes great offers for Kurtzweil or Yamaha Motif (old generations but remained in the stock unsold for long time).

For now I'm happy with my Blofeld keyboard. Very good quality and excellent built quality. I use it as a midi controller and as a synth of course

[chk071]

I must admit that after i wrote my initial post in this thread, the issues with the jumpy values of the rotary encoders on my Axiom 2nd gen haven't either really gone worse, or, it was rather a cases of getting used to the acceleration mode of the encoders. Not having much of an issues with those now, but i surely would still not rely on them in a record, or live situation... but then, i don't do either of those anyway, if then, i would automate in the DAW anyway, so it's really rather for fiddling, or jamming, and it's enough for that.

[incubus]

For me, the fatal flaw with m-audio controllers were as originally stated, and "phantom" stuff that wasn't intended to be written to midi (certain controller stuff would simply show up in midi even though I hadn't done that thing. )