Hi all,
can anyone help me getting those?
My Delta is wrecked, the breaktout-box doesn't function at all, just some sound of a relay after starting the system. AFAIK it could be some bad capacitors which need to be replaced. Therefor I need it.
Thanks in advance
Michael
M-Audio Delta 1010 Circuit schematics
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- KVRian
- 618 posts since 31 May, 2004 from Germany
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- KVRAF
- 6323 posts since 30 Dec, 2004 from London uk
Its highly unlikely youll get a circuit diagram. Just randomly choosing a component and saying its the problem wont help either. Either you know how to fault find or you don't. It could simply be bad connections from card to motherboard/breakout box cable or catastrophic fail. Try it on another PC to make sure its really hardware fail. If it is, You need a replacement.
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- KVRian
- Topic Starter
- 618 posts since 31 May, 2004 from Germany
Thanks alot.
Yeah, support told me they won't give any circuit diagrams
(which is kind of obvious, but hey, I tried it....
)
The father of a friend of mine knows what to do, I hope he can get it working.
I did hotplug the device by accident.
Yeah, support told me they won't give any circuit diagrams
(which is kind of obvious, but hey, I tried it....
)The father of a friend of mine knows what to do, I hope he can get it working.
I did hotplug the device by accident.
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- KVRAF
- 1895 posts since 13 Oct, 2002
First make sure your power supply is ok. Often it's that simple. 
Then open the box and check the connectors, which is usually an easy fix. See if any of the pins are not soldered properly or move if you try to move the connector. Then reflow the solder (reheat and add a little solder to each pin). I've done this myself on a couple of synths over the years.
The 1010 was produced in the same early to mid 2000's time-frame as a lot of other electronic equipment that also had bad capacitor problems. I've seen it myself on motherboards and network switches. Look at the caps on the PC board and compare them to the example pictures posted on www.badcaps.net. They usually look like they're bulging, or even have resin coming out of them. If that's your problem, you can easily find replacements. But changing them is another story. Without a proper de-soldering station or de-soldering tools and the experience to use them, you could easily damage the PC boards. You might want to pay someone to get this done.
If it's none of the above, then it'll require more invasive testing. Then you have to weigh the cost of getting it fixed vs the cost of getting a replacement...
Then open the box and check the connectors, which is usually an easy fix. See if any of the pins are not soldered properly or move if you try to move the connector. Then reflow the solder (reheat and add a little solder to each pin). I've done this myself on a couple of synths over the years.
The 1010 was produced in the same early to mid 2000's time-frame as a lot of other electronic equipment that also had bad capacitor problems. I've seen it myself on motherboards and network switches. Look at the caps on the PC board and compare them to the example pictures posted on www.badcaps.net. They usually look like they're bulging, or even have resin coming out of them. If that's your problem, you can easily find replacements. But changing them is another story. Without a proper de-soldering station or de-soldering tools and the experience to use them, you could easily damage the PC boards. You might want to pay someone to get this done.
If it's none of the above, then it'll require more invasive testing. Then you have to weigh the cost of getting it fixed vs the cost of getting a replacement...
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- KVRAF
- 2750 posts since 2 Feb, 2005 from Raincoast of Grayland
And from painful experience, de-soldering M-Audio 64bit drivers is the worst part. Re-soldering RME drivers in their place is the other worst part.
perception: the stuff reality is made of.
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- KVRian
- Topic Starter
- 618 posts since 31 May, 2004 from Germany
As far as I can see the pins are solderen properly, the cpacitors are not bulged. Pehraps it's really just te power supply. Does anyone know if I can replace it with some standard supllies? That'd be greatBreeze wrote:First make sure your power supply is ok. Often it's that simple.
Then open the box and check the connectors, which is usually an easy fix. See if any of the pins are not soldered properly or move if you try to move the connector. Then reflow the solder (reheat and add a little solder to each pin). I've done this myself on a couple of synths over the years.
The 1010 was produced in the same early to mid 2000's time-frame as a lot of other electronic equipment that also had bad capacitor problems. I've seen it myself on motherboards and network switches. Look at the caps on the PC board and compare them to the example pictures posted on www.badcaps.net. They usually look like they're bulging, or even have resin coming out of them. If that's your problem, you can easily find replacements. But changing them is another story. Without a proper de-soldering station or de-soldering tools and the experience to use them, you could easily damage the PC boards. You might want to pay someone to get this done.
If it's none of the above, then it'll require more invasive testing. Then you have to weigh the cost of getting it fixed vs the cost of getting a replacement...
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- KVRAF
- 16798 posts since 8 Mar, 2005 from Utrecht, Holland
If the power led is still glowing, then it definitely is not the power supply.
To check the power supply you need a multimeter and some glasses to read the fineprint on the supply, to read how many volts it's supposed to deliver, and weather that's decent "=" or alternating "~" current.
To check the power supply you need a multimeter and some glasses to read the fineprint on the supply, to read how many volts it's supposed to deliver, and weather that's decent "=" or alternating "~" current.
We are the KVR collective. Resistance is futile. You will be assimilated. 
My MusicCalc is served over https!!
My MusicCalc is served over https!!
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- KVRian
- Topic Starter
- 618 posts since 31 May, 2004 from Germany
The power LED is off, but that could also be a problem within the breakout box.BertKoor wrote:If the power led is still glowing, then it definitely is not the power supply.
To check the power supply you need a multimeter and some glasses to read the fineprint on the supply, to read how many volts it's supposed to deliver, and weather that's decent "=" or alternating "~" current.
I'll keep you informed
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- KVRAF
- 6323 posts since 30 Dec, 2004 from London uk
Hot plugging could have taken out the PSU/fuse. It is possible to get something that will work but better to get the PSU from maudio if they still have them. A quick Google on the user manual shows the PSU as being 9v AC at 3 amps.
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- KVRian
- Topic Starter
- 618 posts since 31 May, 2004 from Germany
Okay. I'll have it checked and keep you informed.UltraJv wrote:Hot plugging could have taken out the PSU/fuse. It is possible to get something that will work but better to get the PSU from maudio if they still have them. A quick Google on the user manual shows the PSU as being 9v AC at 3 amps.