Edirol PCR-50 Midi Controller: Keys Dying Rapidly

[I.P]

OH MY!!! so useful information in here! Thank you guys!

I have an edirol pcr-m50 with 3 dead keys in the corner!

I asked a service center in my country for a fix in about a year ago but the cost was so high that i said f... it, its better go for a new one (they said they need to replace all of the keys and the inside system etc etc)...

Opened the edirol by my self, just in case it is dust, or something not in place... get some keys out, clean them a bit and then the device worked for 2-3 days (but no velocity). After that they died again.

Anyway, finally i got a nocturn key and put the edirol on the corner ...

now with all this detailed information i think is time to re-try

cold beer, music on... a screw driver = Cool Sunday

Ill fix it or completely brake it ;p

best

[karlsound]

FANTASTIC!

Thanks very much for the great advice; I was thinking I might need a new keyboard but it's all working as new now after following your advice.
Cheers

I've got a M30 but I've got no problems yet. OTOH I've had to work on my d5 a couple of times and if it's the same thing, those are carbon contacts and this is what works for me.

Under the keys you'll find a rubber blister strip(s) with one or two blisters per key. These use tabs that are press fit into tiny holes to keep them in alignment with the bottom contact strip.

Carefully pull the blister strip from the bottom contacts. Paying close attention to the tiny press in tabs to keep them from tearing off the strip.

When you get them apart you'll find little carbon contacts inside the blisters. These are the problem. They should look dull black but they probably look shiny because the rubber and carbon has hardened.

Take a common pencil eraser and burnish (rub) the contacts until they aren't shiny anymore. Do the same to the bottom contacts and do all of them while you are at it.

Do not use liquid cleaner of any kind or power tools like a Dremel. If you've got one of those powered drafting erasers those usually work great.

Once the carbon gets too hard this won't work and you'll need to replace the blister strip. They are not expensive.. if you can get a Roland repair center to place the order for you.

The last time I had to do it was maybe six years ago and it's still fine so it holds up.

If you have the time I'd like to know if this works for you. I expect to have to repair my m30 someday and it'd be nice to know before I go in.

Good luck.

[Hink]

tomg has been MIA for almost a year and when he last posted he told of serious health issues so I fear the worst. However, I'm sure he is/would be very happy to hear that he was able to help you out

[Krael]

Thanks! Tomg's advice worked like a charm. Hope he's okay.

[Meffy]

Moved to DIY at Hink's request.

[Hink]

thanx Meffy

[chris2001net]

I just bought an old pcr-m30, google brought me to this thread and I've done Tomg's pencil trick to 50% of the keys they all work now, great fix.

I know the theads old now so for the previous posters who did the pencil trick, has it worked out as a long lasting solution?

[Dewdman42]

graphite powder didn't work for me and my PCR-M1. What is weird is that its exactly the keys C3-D3-E3-F3-G3 that are registering no low velocity, only super high velocity. But all other keys are fine..well the very bottom key is not fine either. All the other keys are fine, but those that are bad happen to be right in a row like that, which leads me to believe its omsething more then the contacts...but something underneath in the circuit board. Anyway, I give up, throwing it away.

thanks for the ideas though, 10 years later..