Rebuilding combo amps into ampheads?
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- KVRAF
- 16815 posts since 13 Oct, 2009
^^^ what he said.
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- KVRian
- Topic Starter
- 693 posts since 18 Apr, 2021
I'll just take the amp with me the next time I take something to the guitar tech I use, and get him to do that part for me, no problem. The amp is already removed from the chassis, and the wires to the speakers are disconnected from the speakers. The only thing left is what to do with the wires
In fact I'm only modding the chassis, just woodworking in other words. I've built more complicated stuff from scratch, and I have never been electrocuted while working with wood, at least not to my knowledge

In fact I'm only modding the chassis, just woodworking in other words. I've built more complicated stuff from scratch, and I have never been electrocuted while working with wood, at least not to my knowledge

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- KVRAF
- 16815 posts since 13 Oct, 2009
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- KVRian
- Topic Starter
- 693 posts since 18 Apr, 2021
Here's another great idea, why don't you stop behaving like an angry online gamer?
I ask about things as I don't know, if I knew I wouldn't have any questions. You might not know this, you can actually answer peoples questions without trying your best to berate them as well. Anyway, this is the only time I will respond to you, you add nothing of value. Have a nice day!
I ask about things as I don't know, if I knew I wouldn't have any questions. You might not know this, you can actually answer peoples questions without trying your best to berate them as well. Anyway, this is the only time I will respond to you, you add nothing of value. Have a nice day!
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- KVRAF
- 16815 posts since 13 Oct, 2009
I've already answered your questions, if you recall:
I stand by this. You working on amps is a terrible idea, you taking it to someone who knows what they're doing is a great idea.This thread hasn't derailed, you asked us what we think, we're telling you. You have no idea what you're doing and thus, for you, it's a terrible idea.
- KVRAF
- 20910 posts since 22 Nov, 2000 from Southern California
The red wire needs to be soldered to where the thin black wire is on the jack. Or you can simply crimp the ends of the red and thin black wires together, and tape them up.
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- KVRian
- Topic Starter
- 693 posts since 18 Apr, 2021
It doesn't do that, I don't know if that is by design or if it's brokenBertKoor wrote: Wed Oct 01, 2025 8:33 am The connector has some clevery bent parts inside which perform the magic of disconnecting the two top pins when a plug is inserted
I'm not forcing anyone to answer my questions, I appreciate your input, if it annoys you, you should just ignore my questions though, I wont mind. I have taken this step by step, so things come up as I move along. It has actually gone quite smooth so far, the only issue left is the connection to the speakers and how to move that to an external cab output jack. I can handle the modification of the chassis myselfTo be honest, I don't know what you want from us. You're doing this at your own risk and me thinks you have to figure this out by yourself
I can do that. I was also thinking that isolating the external jack plug, as in covering up the current external cab jack plug, which is now removed from the backpanel, with isolation materials, and solder the wires which are going to the speakers to a new jack output, and use that as an output instead. I have a few mono jack chassis plugs left over, and in my mind I'm only moving the speakers outside of the chassis if I do it like thisUncle E wrote: Wed Oct 01, 2025 6:24 pm The red wire needs to be soldered to where the thin black wire is on the jack. Or you can simply crimp the ends of the red and thin black wires together, and tape them up.
I'm a bit confused with the output saying 4-16 ohm, all my ampheads, including the solid state ampheads, have switches to change the ohm depending on the cab you use with them. The speakers I removed was two 8 ohm speakers connected in parallel, which should imply the load was 4 ohm. I only have 8 ohm and 16 ohm cabs. As I understand, at least when it comes to solid state amps, as long as the load from the cab is higher than the load from the amp, you should be safe. I'm more concerned about the speakers in my cabs than this amp btw, I have speakers I payed more for than the amp in some of them
- KVRAF
- 20910 posts since 22 Nov, 2000 from Southern California
In that case, might as well do it right. Getting a new jack is probably a good idea, anyway, because the old one is bad quality. There's no point in leaving the old one in the circuit.YnJ wrote: Thu Oct 02, 2025 8:14 am I can do that. I was also thinking that isolating the external jack plug, as in covering up the current external cab jack plug, which is now removed from the backpanel, with isolation materials, and solder the wires which are going to the speakers to a new jack output, and use that as an output instead. I have a few mono jack chassis plugs left over, and in my mind I'm only moving the speakers outside of the chassis if I do it like this
Solid state amps can handle a wide range of impedance. That's all that means.I'm a bit confused with the output saying 4-16 ohm
- KVRAF
- 16860 posts since 8 Mar, 2005 from Utrecht, Holland
I'd put a plug on the wire to the speaker, into a socket. Like this:
Almost can't go wrong 
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- KVRian
- Topic Starter
- 693 posts since 18 Apr, 2021
Thanks! That was quickly done as soon as I got my hands on it. Had it plugged in to an 8 ohm 4x12 and it sounds pretty good, no problems so far. I still need to finish the chassis of course, at least to make it look as good as the amphead as well, for all practical purposes it works fine as it is now thoughUncle E wrote: Thu Oct 02, 2025 5:51 pm In that case, might as well do it right. Getting a new jack is probably a good idea, anyway, because the old one is bad quality. There's no point in leaving the old one in the circuit
Solid state amps can handle a wide range of impedance. That's all that meansI'm a bit confused with the output saying 4-16 ohm
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- KVRian
- Topic Starter
- 693 posts since 18 Apr, 2021
I'm not going to turn the rest of the chassis into a 2x12 cab, not worth the effort as it isn't plywood. Not sure what to do with the G12T-100 Hot 100 speakers which came with it. They sound too clean for my taste on their own, and my first thought was to just sell them. They are proper speakers, so I should probably try them in combination with other speakers first though
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- KVRist
- 60 posts since 6 Oct, 2022
I did this with a 6505+. Originally I was going to do the cabinet cut-up method mentioned in the OP, but the amp I bought actually came with a plywood box that they were originally going to use for this exact thing. I ended up tolexing the box, and the result looks way nicer. Would highly recommend anyone interested in doing this too, if you've got the access to woodworking tools, to make a plywood box for the amp head. It's a lot lighter too since it's plywood instead of MDF.
I sold the cabinet w/ speaker as-is cheaply as a replacement part for somebody.
A good way to discharge caps is to just slam a chord on the guitar and then unplug the amp while it's ringing out.
I sold the cabinet w/ speaker as-is cheaply as a replacement part for somebody.
A good way to discharge caps is to just slam a chord on the guitar and then unplug the amp while it's ringing out.
- KVRAF
- 8503 posts since 12 Feb, 2006 from Helsinki, Finland
I think the tech was just being irresponsible.YnJ wrote: Sat Sep 13, 2025 7:59 pm I have removed amps from their chassis numerous times, even tube amps. The tech who used to do maintenance on my amps always wanted me to remove the amp from the chassis when delivering it to him. He never warned me about any dangers, perhaps it's a Marshall thing or just stricter regulations when it comes to electronics in Norway. I managed to do it without touching anything inside or on top of the amp anyway
Generally most circuits tend to bleed their caps down to safe voltages "eventually" but that might take anywhere from a few seconds to several days once the power cord is unplugged (never assume that just turning the power off from a switch is enough).
The reason high voltages are really dangerous though (once we're past the "potential lethal" point) is that as voltages go up, the distance over which electricity can jump the air gap also goes up... so if the voltage is high enough and you get close enough, you might get zapped even if you didn't actually touch anything.
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- KVRian
- Topic Starter
- 693 posts since 18 Apr, 2021
I got a Hughes & Kettner Attax 100 watt combo, which I paid 50 quid for just to get the speaker. An Eminence Rockdriver, apparently a variant of the Legend, and totally worth the 50 quid alone. The Attax 100 isn't bad, it's a solid state amp with a single tube in the preamp, it doesn't stand out in any way either though. I thought rebuilding it into an amphead would be a nice project though. I'll build a new chassis for the amp, and rebuild the old chassis into a single speaker cabSurgo wrote: Thu Nov 06, 2025 2:48 am I did this with a 6505+. Originally I was going to do the cabinet cut-up method mentioned in the OP, but the amp I bought actually came with a plywood box that they were originally going to use for this exact thing. I ended up tolexing the box, and the result looks way nicer. Would highly recommend anyone interested in doing this too, if you've got the access to woodworking tools, to make a plywood box for the amp head. It's a lot lighter too since it's plywood instead of MDF
Thanks!A good way to discharge caps is to just slam a chord on the guitar and then unplug the amp while it's ringing out.