KVR Audio

hibidy · Post by **hibidy** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 6:57 pm

Uncle E wrote:
hibidy wrote:a SS amp, and it's the bomb eh?
It's all-tube, including the tube rectifier and tube-driven reverb. I wish I could get more sag out of the rectifier tube, does anyone have any suggestions for that?

I swear on my goldfishes grave I saw it under "solid state" on a site.

Gee whiz, guess what local store doesn't have jack shit to try

trimph1 · Post by **trimph1** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 6:58 pm

mmmmmm....now. Define 'sag' please.

Hink · Post by **Hink** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:05 pm

trimph1 wrote:mmmmmm....now. Define 'sag' please.

http://www.aikenamps.com/Sag.html

trimph1 · Post by **trimph1** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:21 pm

Hink wrote:
trimph1 wrote:mmmmmm....now. Define 'sag' please.
http://www.aikenamps.com/Sag.html

AAhhhhh...got you...completely forgot that one...

What rectifier tube is in that amp? Go for a lower supply voltage somehow...increase resistance someplace before that tube maybe?

Mind you..this is a wild stab at this thing....

Uncle E · Post by **Uncle E** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:23 pm

Hink wrote:scam? I think I'm a tad smarter than that

Well, it's not a scam but I agree with susiwong's sentiment that the price could stand to be lower given what it costs them. Steve Grindrod is a great pr0n name, btw.

I find it kind of typical that you suspect anything not botique or 'classic' is a scam or not as good but once again I say to you my friend, it's not the gear that makes the player it's the player that makes the gear.

IME, "you get what you pay for" and the 50/90 rule (there's always a way to pay 50% of the price to get 90% of the quality) both hold true. Will a Jet City JCA20H replace a Soldano SLO? Nope, but it'll replace an Astroverb 16 quite easily, particularly after a tube upgrade.

Uncle E · Post by **Uncle E** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:31 pm

trimph1 wrote:What rectifier tube is in that amp? Go for a lower supply voltage somehow...increase resistance someplace before that tube maybe?

It uses a 5AR4. Can that be substituted without damaging the amp?

trimph1 · Post by **trimph1** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:54 pm

Uncle E wrote:
trimph1 wrote:What rectifier tube is in that amp? Go for a lower supply voltage somehow...increase resistance someplace before that tube maybe?
It uses a 5AR4. Can that be substituted without damaging the amp?

Depends on how robust the PS is. I've replaced the rectifier tube in my Princeton once several millenia ago and experienced no problems with it.

I'm thinking that this site may have some good info on it...
http://www.guitaramplifierblueprinting. ... fiers.html

Hink · Post by **Hink** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:56 pm

Uncle E wrote:
Hink wrote:scam? I think I'm a tad smarter than that
Well, it's not a scam but I agree with susiwong's sentiment that the price could stand to be lower given what it costs them. Steve Grindrod is a great pr0n name, btw.

I find it kind of typical that you suspect anything not botique or 'classic' is a scam or not as good but once again I say to you my friend, it's not the gear that makes the player it's the player that makes the gear.
IME, "you get what you pay for" and the 50/90 rule (there's always a way to pay 50% of the price to get 90% of the quality) both hold true. Will a Jet City JCA20H replace a Soldano SLO? Nope, but it'll replace an Astroverb 16 quite easily, particularly after a tube upgrade.

but you can't say anything about this unless you've played it? Have you? I'm quite interested in the concept of the two channels. As for price it's right there with many of the new generation of this class of tube amps. $549.00 It's there with the price of my engater or that of the price of a tiny terror. It appears to have at the very least equal features, so I guess I know what your opinion of those amps are.

To even suggest that it is a scam (what a totally outrageous and inflammatory word to use) without even trying it, to mock it openly is absolutely out of line...you have to be kidding me, you are going to suggest that prejudging something absolutely no knowledge is warranted? And you're a music retailer?

Maybe by you guys, but I'm not way up there with you guys, I'm just little ol me who can sound the way I want and when I want (I really do not care if anyone else likes how I sound, I play in the moment for me). I am proud I can do it with the gear I choose (and still feed my family)...not what everyone else thinks is cool but what is really not cool is dissing any product before it's had a chance to show it's stuff.

I'm saying this and I'm not even sure that I will like it, will get it or ever think about it again...but I'm not going to be so pretentious and pompous that I can rule from my throne that it's probably not worth what you pay for. Sorry Eric but that is beneath both of you, give it a chance at least. I know it's a vintage this, or a super cool that but what are you going to do if one day you are selling this amp?

Do not take it personally, I'm just not that superficial. Hell I can get extreme pleasure from playing through my old xt live and a bose acoustic wave...that is what it is all about for me

Dean Aka Nekro · Post by **Dean Aka Nekro** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 7:58 pm

Uncle E wrote:
trimph1 wrote:What rectifier tube is in that amp? Go for a lower supply voltage somehow...increase resistance someplace before that tube maybe?
It uses a 5AR4. Can that be substituted without damaging the amp?

I found these, but personally i do not know. Teh boutique valverian snob

will have alot more experience with valve rectification. Me? I'd shove a silicon diode rectifier in

:

http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/95046.aspx
http://archive.ampage.org/threads/0/amp ... ar4-1.html

Hope it helps some anyway Eric

Dean

Edit: Looks useful to bookmark for the Data sheets:
http://www.duncanamps.com/

trimph1 · Post by **trimph1** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:02 pm

Dean Aka Nekro wrote:
Uncle E wrote:
trimph1 wrote:What rectifier tube is in that amp? Go for a lower supply voltage somehow...increase resistance someplace before that tube maybe?
It uses a 5AR4. Can that be substituted without damaging the amp?
I found these, but personally i do not know. Teh boutique valverian snob will have alot more experience with valve rectification. Me? I'd shove a silicon diode rectifier in :

http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/95046.aspx
http://archive.ampage.org/threads/0/amp ... ar4-1.html

Hope it helps some anyway Eric

Dean

Yeah..I've seen some other peeps do the switch over to the 5U4G instead of the 5AR4 tube...

Stupid thing of this is that I have in here, someplace, a RCA radio tube replacement guide that showed all manner of different things that can be switched over..do I know where it is? Noooooooooooo....

Hink · Post by **Hink** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:08 pm

trimph1 wrote:
Dean Aka Nekro wrote:
Uncle E wrote:
trimph1 wrote:What rectifier tube is in that amp? Go for a lower supply voltage somehow...increase resistance someplace before that tube maybe?
It uses a 5AR4. Can that be substituted without damaging the amp?
I found these, but personally i do not know. Teh boutique valverian snob will have alot more experience with valve rectification. Me? I'd shove a silicon diode rectifier in :

http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/95046.aspx
http://archive.ampage.org/threads/0/amp ... ar4-1.html

Hope it helps some anyway Eric

Dean
Yeah..I've seen some other peeps do the switch over to the 5U4G instead of the 5AR4 tube...

Stupid thing of this is that I have in here, someplace, a RCA radio tube replacement guide that showed all manner of different things that can be switched over..do I know where it is? Noooooooooooo....

it's probably online (or a reasonable replacement) somewhere

I dont even get up and go dig out the box of manuals anymore when one is needed, I just go get the pdf online...I have even done it so I can look at the back of a rack piece so I dont have to move things around to look at mine

FWIW if I do have to look behind gear (like I did with my stereo reciever last night) I just stick the camera back there holding it so I can take a picture of the back of my gear

trimph1 · Post by **trimph1** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:11 pm

Yeah...but this one is just plain old...I'll try hunting for it on-line...who knows someone, somewhere, somehow got the ding thing up ...

Hink · Post by **Hink** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:13 pm

trimph1 wrote:

Yeah...but this one is just plain old...I'll try hunting for it on-line...who knows someone, somewhere, somehow got the ding thing up ...

gotta find some thing here

the first link

susiwong · Post by **susiwong** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:16 pm

Hello Hink,
why don't you just keep the player aspect seperate from gear discussions ?
Same goes for hibidy in a way ...
In my book the only buyers not worthy of owning musical gear are the pure investors, locking the instruments away in a bank safe.

Everybody else, beginner, hobbyist, pro, good or bad player (whatever that means), playing good or bad music (whatever that means) has the same right to own whatever instrument they want and can afford.
Everybody can play an open A chord.
It will sound better on some gear than on others, that's the point.
What better means, how much that is worth to you and how much the aspect of build quality and holding its value over the years means to you (not explicitly Hink, "you" meant in general) is what I'm discussing here personally.
Some of this is based on subjective criteria alone.
Other stuff follows more rational rules, point to point wiring is best, tube sockets soldered to PCB is not good, period.
Doesn't mean you won't find many shades in between, and good music can be played on everything.

On a different note, everything that is technically directed towards a person in a forum is public, so when I post tips like the above I try and keep in mind all possible readers, so words of caution or explanations are meant in general.

And last but not least, I tend to prefer well built, high quality gear, and like I wrote above, this does not have to be expensive, especially in the US.
For the cost of such a low end, far east mass product you can still get a real ptp Fender amp, BF or SF, with a virtual lifetime guarantee as they can always be repaired easily, some JCM800 models are in that ballpark, Eric's Anniversary did not cost much more, even Mesas or Dr. Zs can be had below $1000 if you look around ...
Same for some reasonably priced handbuilt boutique gear like your Frenzel or Weber or Ceriatone to name a few.
And ime these classics tend to sound better, too, most of the time, once they're properly serviced.
If that means being a gear snob, I am.
And I'm mighty proud of it.

Re far east origin, at least the Japanese (Tokai, Gretsch etc) have caught up nicely to the big boys, comparing well even to CS quality, the Chinese still have a long way to go, but they're learning fast.

Peace,
susiwong

Dean Aka Nekro · Post by **Dean Aka Nekro** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 8:18 pm

trimph1 wrote:
Dean Aka Nekro wrote:
Uncle E wrote:
trimph1 wrote:What rectifier tube is in that amp? Go for a lower supply voltage somehow...increase resistance someplace before that tube maybe?
It uses a 5AR4. Can that be substituted without damaging the amp?
I found these, but personally i do not know. Teh boutique valverian snob will have alot more experience with valve rectification. Me? I'd shove a silicon diode rectifier in :

http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/95046.aspx
http://archive.ampage.org/threads/0/amp ... ar4-1.html

Hope it helps some anyway Eric

Dean
Yeah..I've seen some other peeps do the switch over to the 5U4G instead of the 5AR4 tube...

Stupid thing of this is that I have in here, someplace, a RCA radio tube replacement guide that showed all manner of different things that can be switched over..do I know where it is? Noooooooooooo....

If you missed it, For amps and snizzle this site seems good man:

Edit: Looks useful to bookmark for the Data sheets:
http://www.duncanamps.com/

@Hink - I am a camera man also when it comes to that sort of thing. Even studio setups i get the camera out for *almost* perfect recall

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