KRK KNS8400
One earphone broke off.
I took it apart ready to repair solder but this wire is a pain to work with.
As per youtube tutorials, I burned away the shielding (can't believe this thin, strandy coating actually keeps the2 wires separated) but then to test before soldering I can barely get it to conduct and work the other headphone.
I then scraped it to clean copper after melting and still the same problem. I am testing by just touching the wires to the other Headphones existing solder points on the speaker. I press every strand of the wire against the solder points but it just doesn't work most of the time.
Can I not just use any dual wire like speaker wire or something as long as it'll fit through the internals of the headphone band? Does it have to be stranded wire or can I use something one solid wire?
also there's not enough slack now that I had to tinker with it so much that I'd have to buy new wire but I have tons of various scrap wire if I can just use that.
headphone repair. Do I have to use the same stupid wire?
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- KVRAF
- 16811 posts since 8 Mar, 2005 from Utrecht, Holland
Go ahead, stick in any wire you have laying about that fits through the cavity. I get the impression the current wire is half broken and needs complete replacing.
Too thin wire gets hot and may burn through when too many amperes (is that current?) are put on it. Since headphones are low power, that's not so likely.
Too thick wire has a bigger capacitance (as in a capacitor) than thin. That is a problem with frequencies in the megahertz-gigahertz range, so not a problem for a headphone.
Solid wire lacks flexibility and will break when repeatedly bent at the same spot. It's made for permanent installation, like cemented into the walls.
So take the thinnest stranded wire where you can tell both apart. You don't want to mess up the phase.
Too thin wire gets hot and may burn through when too many amperes (is that current?) are put on it. Since headphones are low power, that's not so likely.
Too thick wire has a bigger capacitance (as in a capacitor) than thin. That is a problem with frequencies in the megahertz-gigahertz range, so not a problem for a headphone.
Solid wire lacks flexibility and will break when repeatedly bent at the same spot. It's made for permanent installation, like cemented into the walls.
So take the thinnest stranded wire where you can tell both apart. You don't want to mess up the phase.
Last edited by BertKoor on Thu Dec 23, 2021 7:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- KVRAF
- 8110 posts since 13 Jan, 2003 from Darkest Kent, UK
If it conducts anything that fits will work, at that signal level you could even try non-shielded stuff.
However they use stranded wire for a reason; it's much more flexible and resistant to stress when bent. A single solid core will work fine electrically for a while but will soon wear and snap just like bending a wire coat hangar etc.
I've no idea what those KRKs are like, do they have a detachable cable or is it fixed? If there's already a socket then is the problem between the socket and an earpiece? I wouldn't recommend solid core if it's to an earpiece as I said, will stress every time the earpiece moves. But I don't see an issue with regular cable if it's thin enough, doesn't have to be the lacquered type electrically.
However they use stranded wire for a reason; it's much more flexible and resistant to stress when bent. A single solid core will work fine electrically for a while but will soon wear and snap just like bending a wire coat hangar etc.
I've no idea what those KRKs are like, do they have a detachable cable or is it fixed? If there's already a socket then is the problem between the socket and an earpiece? I wouldn't recommend solid core if it's to an earpiece as I said, will stress every time the earpiece moves. But I don't see an issue with regular cable if it's thin enough, doesn't have to be the lacquered type electrically.