KVR Audio

Uncle E · Post by **Uncle E** » Mon Feb 26, 2007 10:38 pm

To be honest, I've found the nut to have less effect on tuning stability than you might think. It is important but not nearly as important as locking tuners, a dual-fulcrum bridge, & getting rid of the string tree. You could always rub graphite powder into your current nut, too, to gain what benefits a low friction nut offers. I don't know if the Earvana or Tusq are low friction.

We don't sell this stuff, I'm just offering information from my own experiences.

Muff Wiggler · Post by **Muff Wiggler** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 1:47 am

couple photos...

click here for fullsize

Sascha Franck · Post by **Sascha Franck** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:00 am

Oh, a nice looking one!
Btw, if you ever run into more than average string breakage (I did, not only with my Legacy - but I *do* pick them hard for sure), I can recommend getting replacement bridge saddles from GraphTech. For the first time in ages, I don't have to exchange strings anymore due to breakage, but due to them getting dull. If at all, I noticed a slightly more "satin-ish" sound, so that hasn't been a disadvantage either. Those GraphTech saddles cost around 40 bucks. But well, that's really just some "in case" advice.

susiwong · Post by **susiwong** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:03 am

Hey, nice one !
Did you change the knobs ?
I can't remember seeing one like that before !
If she sounds as good as she looks ...
Cheers, susiwong

Btw, the best material for a nut imho is bone or ivory (which is politically questionable). You'll probably want a good luthier do that job for you since it does require some know-how to get it right and it isn't that expensive anyway.
Another decent material is Graphite, which is what Eric's Tusk nuts are made of afaik.

Sascha Franck · Post by **Sascha Franck** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:06 am

I have a graphite nut in my Legacy and removed the string tree (it's got staggered locking tuners anyways, so the angle of the strings running through the nut is almost identical throughout). Not a single tuning problem at all. But IMO, as Eric said, the locking tuners are responsible for the most part of that tuning stability.

Hink · Post by **Hink** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:44 am

Nice MW

Muff Wiggler · Post by **Muff Wiggler** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 2:32 pm

hey a couple of you have mentioned the string tree now, are they that bad? first i've ever heard of it....

Sascha Franck · Post by **Sascha Franck** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:33 pm

Muff Wiggler wrote:hey a couple of you have mentioned the string tree now, are they that bad?

No, they're not that bad. But it depends a lot on your useage of the whammy bar. If you go for larger dives and stuff, you may probably notice a sort of scratching sound coming from the string tree. If you don't notice any, just leave it there.

Muff Wiggler · Post by **Muff Wiggler** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:36 pm

ah, that makes sense

yes i get that but a bit of pencil lead in the tree makes it all better

Sascha Franck · Post by **Sascha Franck** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:44 pm

From your picture I can't see what tuners are on the guitar - are they locking ones? And probably staggered, so the spindles (word?) for the higher strings are not as long? This is what they are on mine (Sperzel locking tuners), so removing the string tree was a no brainer for me. Basically, they only serve one purpose, that is ensuring that open strings won't "shatter" in the nut, or even slip out of it. With staggered tuners this automatically is less of a problem.

Uncle E · Post by **Uncle E** » Tue Feb 27, 2007 6:22 pm

String trees are a serious problem for me. I always have to do the Hendrix trick of pulling back on the bar to get them back in tune after a dive bomb. My two guitars with staggered tuners stay in tune far better. YMMV, of course, as I'm sure most people these days don't use the bar as much as I do.

AFAIK, most (if not all) G&L's have graphite string trees. I haven't noticed the graphite tree on my Legacy to be any better than the metal one on my Fender.

G&L_player · Post by **G&L_player** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 10:52 am

Muff Wiggler wrote:hi folks, i'm having a crazy dilemma

No worries!

Dude, G&L is what Leo wanted his Fender guitars to become, simply put. More specifically, Leo was unable to make the mods that he intended at Fender, so he left. FYI: one of the main reasons why Fender wouldn't let him play with the standard Fender designs was due to- replaceable parts.

The G&L line represents the last models that Leo designed. Take a closer look at that headstock man...it's much thicker than a standard Strat. The tone transfer is huge. In addition, it's very well balanced. Personally, I particularly appreciate the large body cuts, which are very comfortable.

Have you checked the options that one can order a new G&L with? It's like getting a Custom Shop Strat! You can choose the neck width, radius, and shape! In addition, one can also order a gun-oiled finish, for maple necks.

The dual fulcrum vibrato is outstanding- just plain FAB! The non-compression truss rod in the neck is also another G&L feature. I can leave mine in the case for extended periods and know that it's still in tune when I take it out, which is a sign of a VERY fine instrument.

The finish options are just icing on the musical cake. Personally, I cannot find one single element to change- no kidding. Everything about them is right, even the PUPS, which I honestly thought I'd have changed by now. They are so sweet. Every new Strat/Tele that I might buy in the future will come from Fullerton. They rock!

FYI: most cats have no idea that they can order whatever model they choose with an array of options (i.e. neck mods, etc...). So, if you're interested, check their site and see what appeals to you.

http://www.glguitars.com

BTW, thanks for the inquiry, and all the best.

G&L_player · Post by **G&L_player** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 11:08 am

Muff Wiggler wrote:hey a couple of you have mentioned the string tree now, are they that bad? first i've ever heard of it....

It depends on one's style. If you bend behind the nut (like I do), the trees are a real drag, as they become like a set of stickies that distract. Some trees are, in fact, better than others for working like this, though. (The older Fender trees just don't seem to hold them in place.) The teflon nut/tree combos are the best system that I have been exposed to to date.

Generally, I don't like trees, but they are necessary on a lot of guitars to pinch (i.e. pull) the string at the correct angle. Most Fender types need 'em.

G&L_player · Post by **G&L_player** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 11:16 am

Muff Wiggler wrote:couple photos...

click here for fullsize

click here for fullsize

Now, ain't she perty?!

It looks like you got the gun-oil on the neck, yeah? I'm willing to bet that you'll never change a thing about that guitar- ever. Every time you try to talk yourself into it, the G&L will talk you out of it!

G&L_player · Post by **G&L_player** » Sat Mar 10, 2007 11:21 am

dachilles wrote:Nothing to worry about! They are very good guitars and you could always re-sell it if you decide you cant live with the headstock. ( Which I agree, somehow it just isnt that classic look. Not that it would stop me)

The headstock thing is no biggie. In fact, I appreciate it more because it's THICK. So, it reminds me of the extra TONE (and balance) that is generated by this ingenuity everytime I look at it. The shape itself, it simply Leo's last stand.

NOW, take another look!

HELP! G&L Guitars