Your next guitar?

[hibidy]

If you want to check to see if it's the locking nut, just play the offending string and press down on the string on the headstock side of the locking nut. If you hear a string bend you know it's slipping through the nut.

I do, time to investigate fixes

[Dean Aka Nekro]

hibidy,
while not being quite as black as you could rightfully expect , it's a beauty !
Now if it only had a headstock you could check the locking nut for your g-string problem ...
Compare the diameter of d- and g-strings and you'll see what I mean.
Should be easy to fix.
Have fun,
susiwong

susiwong, you are EASILY one of my favs........but I have no idea what you are saying

when you talking about the different diameter, are we referring to one being plain and one being wound? Do I gotta slip something in there to cinch it down?

Hey, I'm a total newb (but as I pointed out, I got them strings changed no problemo )

Try a heavier or wound G-String, all my guitars are double-locking floyds or licensed and once setup properly are all totally fine and as stable as any non-locking trem or fixed bridge guitar i have ever played but peoples MMV.
try like a 24 or 26 if you don't mind going for a heavier gauge hibidy. If the problem is fret buzz or it frets out then your going to have to get the allen keys out or send to someone who can do it. Alot of newer guitars are setup on the PLEK systems and never actually played/tested by a human for QC so also the frets could be re-profiled/crowned but it wouldn't be cheap unless you did it yourself and again it could go horribly wrong unless your sure you know exactly what your doing mate

Nice new ride, shame about that middle S/C IMO as they just get in the way So i rip them out, flip them over then screw them down covered in black tape to fill the hole in, i defile my shit though until it is just how i like it

Dean

[hibidy]

hibidy,
while not being quite as black as you could rightfully expect , it's a beauty !
Now if it only had a headstock you could check the locking nut for your g-string problem ...
Compare the diameter of d- and g-strings and you'll see what I mean.
Should be easy to fix.
Have fun,
susiwong

susiwong, you are EASILY one of my favs........but I have no idea what you are saying

when you talking about the different diameter, are we referring to one being plain and one being wound? Do I gotta slip something in there to cinch it down?

Hey, I'm a total newb (but as I pointed out, I got them strings changed no problemo )

Try a heavier or wound G-String, all my guitars are double-locking floyds or licensed and once setup properly are all totally fine and as stable as any non-locking trem or fixed bridge guitar i have ever played but peoples MMV.
try like a 24 or 26 if you don't mind going for a heavier gauge hibidy. If the problem is fret buzz or it frets out then your going to have to get the allen keys out or send to someone who can do it. Alot of newer guitars are setup on the PLEK systems and never actually played/tested by a human for QC so also the frets could be re-profiled/crowned but it wouldn't be cheap unless you did it yourself and again it could go horribly wrong unless your sure you know exactly what your doing mate

Nice new ride, shame about that middle S/C IMO as they just get in the way So i rip them out, flip them over then screw them down covered in black tape to fill the hole in, i defile my shit though until it is just how i like it

Dean

I was really concerned about the middle pickup when I first saw. a) It's single coil. But it's not making much noise at all! b) I thought it would get in the way......so far not an issue. I've got 29 days left to find out for sure though.

[susiwong]

shame about that middle S/C IMO as they just get in the way So i rip them out, flip them over then screw them down covered in black tape to fill the hole in, i defile my shit though until it is just how i like it

Same problem, different solution here - on Strats and Teles I need to have the middle PU flush with the pickguard. Substituting a stronger one in the middle works wonders.
E.g.: Fender Tele Noiseless + Strat Hot Noiseless in the middle - bingo.
Admittedly with IBZ styles it's a bit trickier if you want to keep the RW/RP functionality intact ...
Ymmv,
susiwong

[Dean Aka Nekro]

shame about that middle S/C IMO as they just get in the way So i rip them out, flip them over then screw them down covered in black tape to fill the hole in, i defile my shit though until it is just how i like it

Same problem, different solution here - on Strats and Teles I need to have the middle PU flush with the pickguard. Substituting a stronger one in the middle works wonders.
E.g.: Fender Tele Noiseless + Strat Hot Noiseless in the middle - bingo.
Admittedly with IBZ styles it's a bit trickier if you want to keep the RW/RP functionality intact ...
Ymmv,
susiwong

Yes that sounds a much more sensible solution and cosmetics wise looks better to boot. Although indeed on H/S/H its much trickier to find a single coil that doesn't sound out of place like the big volume drop mentioned to match the hotter buckers or come closer - Compromise is to lower the buckers and then use some more boost/overdrive pedal and/or amp gain, fine if you can get satisfactory results doing that. Go for like mentioned the hottest single coil you can and retrofit that (keep the original incase you want to sell it as 'stock' condition course) Or and this voids the S/C totally, switch the single for a single-coil sized humbucker which then defeats the purpose of the S/C being there in the first place...If i were not the way i am already and coming at it as a new issue i think i would lower the buckers to balance things out and maybe flip the neck humbucker out of phase with the bridge so that the two inbetweens of the five position selector sounds thinned out ala Peter Green which should make the single on its own appear more muscular if that trick works with a H/S/H wiring config that is? *never tried it myself so never thought about it until just now*

[hibidy]

You guys are light years ahead of me. I'm old and I know nothing

[susiwong]

If i were not the way i am already and coming at it as a new issue i think i would lower the buckers to balance things out and maybe flip the neck humbucker out of phase with the bridge so that the two inbetweens of the five position selector sounds thinned out ala Peter Green which should make the single on its own appear more muscular if that trick works with a H/S/H wiring config that is? *never tried it myself so never thought about it until just now*

Not sure if this is a solution ...
Phase is a relation between two signals, so while the HBs might be out of phase with each other, the SC will be in phase with one and out of phase with the other HB - weird.
And then, the "Peter Green mod" is mostly popular for the rainbow of tones you get in the middle position while playing with the 4 controls - like a stone age IBP !
Won't work here for lack of knobs I'm afraid.
I could imagine a few different approaches :
- switching the HBs to parallel in pos. 2 and 4 via a Fender 4 layer switch and using a "SC shaped HB with SC sound" a la Fender Noiseless in the middle that matches the parallel HBs in volume somehow might work better, don't know.
- or maybe with a bit of creative energy and woodworking you could fit two HotRails in the extreme front and back positions and whatever set of 3 SC shaped PUs in the remaining 3 slots ...
- all that said, afaik Ibanez have a nice PRS-style switching scheme for 2xHB guitars - the most sensible solution by far, imho.
Guitar modding is a bit like chess ...
Lol,
susiwong

[Cheeso]

I've always wanted me a tele. My next guitar is a butterscotch Tele.

[susiwong]

I've always wanted me a tele. My next guitar is a butterscotch Tele.

Sounds like a plan !
Make sure it has the bridge with 3 brass barrels !
Cheers,
susiwong

[hibidy]

Make sure it has the bridge with 3 brass barrels !

For real. But it's ok if they are "compensated"

[susiwong]

Make sure it has the bridge with 3 brass barrels !

For real. But it's ok if they are "compensated"

Sure.
It's about tone, not looks.
Cheers,
susiwong

[egbert]

I've always wanted me a tele. My next guitar is a butterscotch Tele.

Sounds like a plan !
Make sure it has the bridge with 3 brass barrels !
Cheers,
susiwong

Interesting. Could you comment on how the strat style (ie 6 saddles) bridge affects the tone? I was inclined toward going with the 6 saddle version because I use the graphtech graphite saddles on my strats and never break strings at the bridge since I made the change.

[susiwong]

Interesting. Could you comment on how the strat style (ie 6 saddles) bridge affects the tone? I was inclined toward going with the 6 saddle version because I use the graphtech graphite saddles on my strats and never break strings at the bridge since I made the change.

The 3 saddles just sound a lot bigger, bluesier without losing that typical twang.
If you're after that icy Buck Owens style tone go for 3 steel barrels.
And if you want the Tele for looks but are going for an allround pop sound, a Schecter style bridge with 6 massive square brass saddles is the ticket, increasing sustain at the expense of twang.
All 3 have their application, I don't see any area where a 6 barrel bridge or, even worse, an American Standard style bridge have a sonic advantage.
That said, they can still sound good, but definitely more generic.
Ymmv,
susiwong

[egbert]

OK. Thanks for the info.

[Dean Aka Nekro]

This one seems good for the money in the classic tele style:

http://www.soundsgreatmusic.com/product ... londe.aspx

Or

http://www.soundsgreatmusic.com/product ... aster.aspx

For some shreds and bluesgrass all at the same time. Wierd make up is optiontional but for less than £500 its a decent price but lacks the snap of the brass bridge

Temptations i must resist:

http://www.soundsgreatmusic.com/product ... eries.aspx

http://www.soundsgreatmusic.com/product ... -head.aspx

http://www.soundsgreatmusic.com/product ... a-15-.aspx Very Cute but £1000! but it sounds awesome

D/Nekro