Okay, this is for the absolute beginner and a cool mod….a stratoblaster replica of the model made famous by Alembic (an early pre-amp).
Here is the link for the kit which comes with everything you need except an optional dpdt switch (I do not consider it optional myself as it is a bypass). The switch itself is available at any radio shack or the similar and under 5 dollars…the kit can be ordered with or without an enclosure, if you plan on mounting it in your guitar save yourself the money and get it without the enclosure.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/com ... egory_id=7
The instructions for building this kit can be found at this link under projects (which includes a photo), general building techniques, parts list (comes with the kit), schematic and wiring diagrams for three set-ups (in the enclosure, in the guitar no bypass and in the guitar with a bypass.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php
I need to point out what I consider a flaw in the wiring diagram for in the guitar mounting, one wiring diagram shows a simple spst switch to turn the battery on and off. This is not needed, instead using a stereo jack will allow the batter to be off when the guitar cable is unplugged (more on this later and the jack comes with the kit).
I'm going to post this in several posts so that if anyone has questions along the way they can ask directly about something.
Stratoblaster replica kit build
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- Rad Grandad
- 38041 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- Rad Grandad
- Topic Starter
- 38041 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
Okay, lets first start with the kit and what it comes with and the tools needed.. The kit will come with the parts seen here, in the small bag is 6 resistors, 3 capacitors, field effect transistor (FET), and an LED. It also comes with enough wire in different colors and solder to do the job.
Don't forget you'll probably want a dpdt mini toggle switch.
The tools you'll need are a basic soldering iron, I would suggest a simple pencil type…a 100watt gun is ill advised as it tends to get too hot. I also keep a damp sponge to clean the iron, always remember to keep the soldering iron 'tinned' (just a slight coating of solder)
If you do not have them get yourself a good set of small diagonal cutters (wire cutters), these were 6 or 7 dollars at radio shack and a wire stripper as seen…again very cheap.
I like a good set of industrial tweezers
You will want a multi-meter which you can get under 20 dollars, I used this one
Needle nose pliers help as well and an adjustable wrench or decent pliers.
Also a magnifying glass, I use flip down goggles
Don't forget you'll probably want a dpdt mini toggle switch.
The tools you'll need are a basic soldering iron, I would suggest a simple pencil type…a 100watt gun is ill advised as it tends to get too hot. I also keep a damp sponge to clean the iron, always remember to keep the soldering iron 'tinned' (just a slight coating of solder)
If you do not have them get yourself a good set of small diagonal cutters (wire cutters), these were 6 or 7 dollars at radio shack and a wire stripper as seen…again very cheap.
I like a good set of industrial tweezers
You will want a multi-meter which you can get under 20 dollars, I used this one
Needle nose pliers help as well and an adjustable wrench or decent pliers.
Also a magnifying glass, I use flip down goggles
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- Rad Grandad
- Topic Starter
- 38041 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
Lets get started, the website says start with resistors so lets do that. Resistors are not polarized, you can put install the in either direction. You will see they have colored bands which denote their value, resistance (impedance) is measured in ohms. Here's where the meter is helpful, they do supply you with a chart to read the resistors but using the meter in the 'OHM' mode I find easier with my old eyes, however they may not read exact. Example in this pic you see the meter in the 200k mode meaning it will measure anything up to 200K, if the range you have selected is too low you will see something like this or the needle will not move which means to need to go to a higher value.
Here is an example of a 100k resistor using the 200k range
Here is the 22k resistor
Here is the 100ohm (note the decimal point)
You will have one that is 1.5meg (1M5)
The board is printed with the part needed and basically it shows how it should go in, bend the leads down close to the resistor and slide through the holes
Then flip it around and solder it, clip the leads…here are three done
This resistor (1K) has to go in a tighter space so instead of laying it flat insert it like this and pull it down as close as you can.
Here is an example of a 100k resistor using the 200k range
Here is the 22k resistor
Here is the 100ohm (note the decimal point)
You will have one that is 1.5meg (1M5)
The board is printed with the part needed and basically it shows how it should go in, bend the leads down close to the resistor and slide through the holes
Then flip it around and solder it, clip the leads…here are three done
This resistor (1K) has to go in a tighter space so instead of laying it flat insert it like this and pull it down as close as you can.
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- Rad Grandad
- Topic Starter
- 38041 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
Next capicitors…same idea but they do have a positive and negative. The big black one is hard to see but keep the silver part along the edge like in the picture.
That wide hole you see with solder in it should not have solder on it…a bit of sloppiness on my part however I fix that later as it's only the whole for the plastic mount.
Now the orange caps, each have a + and the board shows you whee the plus goes
Then the FET (fan the leads a little and put in like the shape on the board) then it all should look like this
Still sloppy
That wide hole you see with solder in it should not have solder on it…a bit of sloppiness on my part however I fix that later as it's only the whole for the plastic mount.
Now the orange caps, each have a + and the board shows you whee the plus goes
Then the FET (fan the leads a little and put in like the shape on the board) then it all should look like this
Still sloppy
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- Rad Grandad
- Topic Starter
- 38041 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
Wire the switch like the diagram show ( a little more sloppiness melting some insulation so I covered that part with shrink tube)
I tried to stick to the colors but this next part I forgot to photograph, so wire the pot like show and attach it to the three holes on the edge as shown.
When the pot is wired and the switch is wire it should look like this…note, the green wire is the input…connect this between your volume pot on your guitar and jack, the blue wire goes to your 'tip on your jack as it is the output. The red wire in the middle is the lead from your battery clip and the two black wires on the side are grounds, one from your ground on your vloume pot and the other to the sleeve on the jack (remember you are using a trs jack)
Note I have left one of the three ground connections alone (on the left edge) this is for the negative lead on the battery. However instead of connecting it here simply connect the lead to the 'ring' post on the jack and every time you unplug the guita it will disconnect the battery.
Also note that I used the tone control hole for the SBB pot and I had to use the supplied knob. I drilled a small hole in my pickgaurd for the bypass switch.
Connect the battery, use the post supplied to mount it to the inside of your guitar, button up your guitar and you now have a gain machine in your axe
I tried to stick to the colors but this next part I forgot to photograph, so wire the pot like show and attach it to the three holes on the edge as shown.
When the pot is wired and the switch is wire it should look like this…note, the green wire is the input…connect this between your volume pot on your guitar and jack, the blue wire goes to your 'tip on your jack as it is the output. The red wire in the middle is the lead from your battery clip and the two black wires on the side are grounds, one from your ground on your vloume pot and the other to the sleeve on the jack (remember you are using a trs jack)
Note I have left one of the three ground connections alone (on the left edge) this is for the negative lead on the battery. However instead of connecting it here simply connect the lead to the 'ring' post on the jack and every time you unplug the guita it will disconnect the battery.
Also note that I used the tone control hole for the SBB pot and I had to use the supplied knob. I drilled a small hole in my pickgaurd for the bypass switch.
Connect the battery, use the post supplied to mount it to the inside of your guitar, button up your guitar and you now have a gain machine in your axe
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- Rad Grandad
- Topic Starter
- 38041 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
also note if you wish not to drill a hole for the switch a push/pull pot is a dpdt switch
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- Rad Grandad
- Topic Starter
- 38041 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
Okay, a follow up on this as far as sound goes. I have some form of active electronics in all my guitars. I use active pick-ups, I have the artec QDD2 pre-amp in two guitars (my bari has two in it because I have each pup switchable to it's own output) I have three EMG PA-2 pre-amps (two in an esp that is also wired stereo like my bari) and an Artec BCU active tone control that was in my Warmoth but removed when I put this stratoblaster in it.
The other pres have trimpots on them not allowing for changes on the fly, the SBB has it's own pot for gain. I do have it in a guitar with and EMG 81 & 89, all the way up there is a bit of a 'ring' to it but barely backed off from full volume that goes away. From about 3-8 it has a lot of usefulness and is less noisy than I expected, it seems to fatten the sound quite a bit when using a tube amp.
There's gobs of sustain and having a gain control plus a volume pot on the guitar makes for some cool blending. Bring the gain up on the SBB and use the guitar volume for swells really adds sustain so you can slow you swells down and really manipulate them. A slight bump up brings a solo out a little and bringing the guitar volume way down while bring the gain up (in this case all the way does not cause a ringing sound) sounds a lot like going through a Rat and/or a dist+.
Of course the bypass switch is a must have and I can't yet comment on battery life. I like this pre a lot and putting it in my Warmoth Strat is the perfect fit imo, the price at under 25 dollars is very nice and it's a simple build
The other pres have trimpots on them not allowing for changes on the fly, the SBB has it's own pot for gain. I do have it in a guitar with and EMG 81 & 89, all the way up there is a bit of a 'ring' to it but barely backed off from full volume that goes away. From about 3-8 it has a lot of usefulness and is less noisy than I expected, it seems to fatten the sound quite a bit when using a tube amp.
There's gobs of sustain and having a gain control plus a volume pot on the guitar makes for some cool blending. Bring the gain up on the SBB and use the guitar volume for swells really adds sustain so you can slow you swells down and really manipulate them. A slight bump up brings a solo out a little and bringing the guitar volume way down while bring the gain up (in this case all the way does not cause a ringing sound) sounds a lot like going through a Rat and/or a dist+.
Of course the bypass switch is a must have and I can't yet comment on battery life. I like this pre a lot and putting it in my Warmoth Strat is the perfect fit imo, the price at under 25 dollars is very nice and it's a simple build
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- Rad Grandad
- Topic Starter
- 38041 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
so I'm thinking about ordering at least two more of these kits, I might not assemble them right away (though I probably will at least one) of all the onboard pres I have I like this the best (currently I have more pres than guitars to put them in). I do think this added to my new ESP FR350 would be nice but maybe with a push/pull pot.
I also plan on getting a tele body for that tele neck I have and it will be routed for the old rose I have. A carved top Tele with no finish* routed for a pair of humbuckers and a floyd rose, tummy contour and rear route $275.00...I have EVERYTHING els thanx to that 'scarface' fail. Debating on whether to take the dremel to the tele neck and scallop it, I can design a jig to hold the neck and use the dremel drill press to keep the scalloping consistent.
maybe a b-day present for me in July which will be the 40th anniversary of getting my first guitar. I guess it depends on the economy and how much disposable cash I have for the summer. Gas prices should keep me off the road and home at the pool more so I'll save a few bucks there
*one of 4 things could happen,
1. I could get my best friend to finish it if he's feeling generous (but that depends on how much work he does on my car) he's good at gloss and he can paint.
2. I use tung oil and be done with it.
3. I could stain it myself with no gloss to compliment the worn gold hardware I have. (I could attempt a gloss coat though)
4. I could see what it would take to get nix808 to finish it
I also plan on getting a tele body for that tele neck I have and it will be routed for the old rose I have. A carved top Tele with no finish* routed for a pair of humbuckers and a floyd rose, tummy contour and rear route $275.00...I have EVERYTHING els thanx to that 'scarface' fail. Debating on whether to take the dremel to the tele neck and scallop it, I can design a jig to hold the neck and use the dremel drill press to keep the scalloping consistent.
maybe a b-day present for me in July which will be the 40th anniversary of getting my first guitar. I guess it depends on the economy and how much disposable cash I have for the summer. Gas prices should keep me off the road and home at the pool more so I'll save a few bucks there
*one of 4 things could happen,
1. I could get my best friend to finish it if he's feeling generous (but that depends on how much work he does on my car) he's good at gloss and he can paint.
2. I use tung oil and be done with it.
3. I could stain it myself with no gloss to compliment the worn gold hardware I have. (I could attempt a gloss coat though)
4. I could see what it would take to get nix808 to finish it
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- KVRAF
- 3864 posts since 29 Feb, 2004
Very good, detailed painting-by-numbers !
I bet the documentation took 3 times as long as the actual build ...
Great job !
Cheers,
susiwong
Btw, I always liked those push-push pots Yamaha used in the 80s - any current source ?
Electrically the same as push-pulls, just more comfortable to use on stage.
I bet the documentation took 3 times as long as the actual build ...
Great job !
Cheers,
susiwong
Btw, I always liked those push-push pots Yamaha used in the 80s - any current source ?
Electrically the same as push-pulls, just more comfortable to use on stage.
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- Rad Grandad
- Topic Starter
- 38041 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
if you go through the pages here you'll find them in 25k, 250k 2nd 500k...not sure whath their overseas shipping but these guys are fast and great service.susiwong wrote:Very good, detailed painting-by-numbers !
I bet the documentation took 3 times as long as the actual build ...
Great job !
Cheers,
susiwong
Btw, I always liked those push-push pots Yamaha used in the 80s - any current source ?
Electrically the same as push-pulls, just more comfortable to use on stage.
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- KVRAF
- 3864 posts since 29 Feb, 2004
Sorry, but I don't see any.Hink wrote:if you go through the pages here you'll find them in 25k, 250k 2nd 500k...not sure whath their overseas shipping but these guys are fast and great service.susiwong wrote:Very good, detailed painting-by-numbers !
I bet the documentation took 3 times as long as the actual build ...
Great job !
Cheers,
susiwong
Btw, I always liked those push-push pots Yamaha used in the 80s - any current source ?
Electrically the same as push-pulls, just more comfortable to use on stage.
I'm looking for push-push pots, not push-pulls.
Thanks anyway,
susiwong
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- Rad Grandad
- Topic Starter
- 38041 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- Rad Grandad
- Topic Starter
- 38041 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
bmp because of erics post about this on sale
Uncle E wrote:A preamp booster that Hink loves, the Alembic Stratoblaster, is currently on sale for 10% off and you'll get an additional 15% discount by entering the coupon code eoss2011:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/com ... uct_id=131
If you order it without the enclosure (which is what Hink does since he installs these things in his guitars), the end price is $18.87.
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.
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- KVRist
- 358 posts since 12 Dec, 2006 from Cologne, Germany
Been looking at the Stratoblaster wiring diagrams and it seems to be quite easy to build.
Migth build me one to test on my guitar after I finish my Serendipity drive and T-bender projects
Migth build me one to test on my guitar after I finish my Serendipity drive and T-bender projects
Carpe diem quam minimum credula postero
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- Rad Grandad
- Topic Starter
- 38041 posts since 6 Sep, 2003 from Downeast Maine
go for it Germ, I love it and it's the only onboard pre I have that instead of trimpots I have full control of the gain right at my finger tips
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world. It requires profound, purpose‐larger‐than‐the‐self kind of understanding.