Question - restoring an instrument - painting
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- KVRAF
- 1676 posts since 17 Dec, 2002 from Yorkshire
Hi guys.
What I'm planning to do is to repaint few of my instruments. The problem I have is that their front panels/cases are plastic. Some of them have few scrathes here and there. So the plan is to sort out scrathes first then put primer, paint and the finish.
My major concern is primer as it is important to pick the right one not to dissolve the plastic. Does anybody knows which one is right for that task? Maybe someone can tell me how can I figure out type of plastic the body is made from? (I guess theres a stamp inside the part but symbols are cryptic to me)
Thanks
What I'm planning to do is to repaint few of my instruments. The problem I have is that their front panels/cases are plastic. Some of them have few scrathes here and there. So the plan is to sort out scrathes first then put primer, paint and the finish.
My major concern is primer as it is important to pick the right one not to dissolve the plastic. Does anybody knows which one is right for that task? Maybe someone can tell me how can I figure out type of plastic the body is made from? (I guess theres a stamp inside the part but symbols are cryptic to me)
Thanks
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- KVRAF
- 16977 posts since 23 Jun, 2010 from north of London ON
What type of plastic used is a difficult question unless one knows the age of the piece as well as make...a couple of general comments...a good way to find out what kind of plastic you have seems a little off putting but has worked for me on occasion...it is this..take a little sliver of the plastic in question off the faceplate concerned and take a match to the end of it..
Result?...Polypropylene(PP) and Polyethylene(PE) will both burn slowly and both will drip...PE always seems to smell of candle wax...now as for other types of plastics...PVC does not burn..it just gets soft and stinks to high heaven, Acrylics burn slowly and smell sweet, and ABS plastics tend to burn quick and give off a pong..always do this in the open air please!!
Now as to paint, I've had some success with Krylon Fusion paints...
http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/
...as it does not need all kinds of prep work for it to cling...although I still tend to lightly sand my faceplates when I want to make sure the thing does not chip off
Result?...Polypropylene(PP) and Polyethylene(PE) will both burn slowly and both will drip...PE always seems to smell of candle wax...now as for other types of plastics...PVC does not burn..it just gets soft and stinks to high heaven, Acrylics burn slowly and smell sweet, and ABS plastics tend to burn quick and give off a pong..always do this in the open air please!!
Now as to paint, I've had some success with Krylon Fusion paints...
http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/
...as it does not need all kinds of prep work for it to cling...although I still tend to lightly sand my faceplates when I want to make sure the thing does not chip off
Barry
If a billion people believe a stupid thing it is still a stupid thing
If a billion people believe a stupid thing it is still a stupid thing
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- KVRAF
- Topic Starter
- 1676 posts since 17 Dec, 2002 from Yorkshire
trimph1 thanks for your post. It is very useful tip (buring test). I have been looking for different sorts of painting stuff and was wondering if vinyl die would would work for music gear makeover projects. The benefit I see is that you don't need too much sanding (if at all) and there's no need for priming. Having said that what primer would you recommend?
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- KVRAF
- 16977 posts since 23 Jun, 2010 from north of London ON
With the Krylon paint you really do not need the primer..seems to work just as well without it...otherwise the only primer that I've used was Rustoleum's Primer Spray...http://www.rustoleum.com/cbgproduct.asp?pid=119
And lightly sanding the surface does help give it that extra 'bite' as well..
And lightly sanding the surface does help give it that extra 'bite' as well..
Barry
If a billion people believe a stupid thing it is still a stupid thing
If a billion people believe a stupid thing it is still a stupid thing
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- KVRAF
- Topic Starter
- 1676 posts since 17 Dec, 2002 from Yorkshire
Is it resistant to chipping? I bet you do graphics/text using decals. Is there anything you could recommend?
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- KVRAF
- 16977 posts since 23 Jun, 2010 from north of London ON
It is quite resistant to chipping, from what I've seen so far...
As to decalling, most of my stuff gets done using water slip white paper ... that and a good ink jet printer!!
Although sometimes I have found that using stencils work just as well...if you find that you can't get the NOS decals for the piece it would be an idea to see whether you can kind of take a photo of the decal work and see whether you can come up with a close approximation of the decal that way..
A good source of info on the waterslide decals is here...
http://www.mcgpaper.com/decals.html
Some actually use vinyl as well...
As to decalling, most of my stuff gets done using water slip white paper ... that and a good ink jet printer!!
Although sometimes I have found that using stencils work just as well...if you find that you can't get the NOS decals for the piece it would be an idea to see whether you can kind of take a photo of the decal work and see whether you can come up with a close approximation of the decal that way..
A good source of info on the waterslide decals is here...
http://www.mcgpaper.com/decals.html
Some actually use vinyl as well...
Barry
If a billion people believe a stupid thing it is still a stupid thing
If a billion people believe a stupid thing it is still a stupid thing