KVR Audio

hiheelhottie · Post by **hiheelhottie** » Sat Sep 28, 2013 1:40 am

Hi,

What are some options to hook up powered monitors directly to a computer? Or do I need to get a little mixer? Thanks.

masterhiggins · Post by **masterhiggins** » Sat Sep 28, 2013 1:53 am

I've had pretty good luck with these:

In all seriousness, I'd recommend a cheap little mixer in the event that you need to turn the speakers down IMMEDIATELY. You don't want to leave your speakers at the mercy of your soundcard in case it decides to issue a jet of deafening noise.

-Sam

djanthonyw · Post by **djanthonyw** » Sat Sep 28, 2013 2:33 am

Just get a basic audio interface, that's what they're designed for.

crimsonwarlock · Post by **crimsonwarlock** » Sat Sep 28, 2013 6:32 am

djanthonyw wrote:Just get a basic audio interface, that's what they're designed for.

A basic DECENT audio interface. Make sure it has separate outs for left/right monitors. You still might need specific cables/connectors: something like a Audiophile2496 has cinch-connectors while most powered monitors have jacks.

I used a 2496 (it's still in my computer), cinch-cable going into a separate amplifier that also has cinch connectors. From there I went for powered Alesis M1s (jacks) linked to a M-audio Fastrack Ultra 8R (jacks).

paterpeter · Post by **paterpeter** » Sat Sep 28, 2013 7:27 am

masterhiggins wrote: In all seriousness, I'd recommend a cheap little mixer in the event that you need to turn the speakers down IMMEDIATELY. You don't want to leave your speakers at the mercy of your soundcard in case it decides to issue a jet of deafening noise.

-Sam

I'm using a simple monitor controller for this purpose:
http://www.smproaudio.com/index.php/en/ ... patch-plus

Works great so far. The dB scale on the knob isn't really accurate, so don't really on that.

I had to add a hum remover as my interface (NI Traktor Audio 2) doesn't have balanced outputs and I apparently had a ground loop in my setup:

http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/HD400.aspx

hiheelhottie · Post by **hiheelhottie** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 5:48 am

Is it practical to connect something like apogee duet (http://www.apogeedigital.com/products/duet.php) directly to powered monitors, such as mackie hr824's, that don't have volume knob? Worried about volume suddenly blasting.

fletchflash · Post by **fletchflash** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 10:12 am

i would definately try to get hold of a soundcard. even if its cheap (but quality!) from ebay.

seems really silly to have a pair of monitors such as the mackies and not connect them to a decent soundcar or mixer

sebaden · Post by **sebaden** » Sun Sep 29, 2013 10:22 am

fletchflash wrote:i would definately try to get hold of a soundcard. even if its cheap (but quality!) from ebay.

seems really silly to have a pair of monitors such as the mackies and not connect them to a decent soundcar or mixer

Where OP said he didn't have a Soundcard when he said connecting directly to a Computer instead of a Mixer?

DSPDiva · Post by **DSPDiva** » Fri Oct 04, 2013 8:20 pm

paterpeter wrote:
masterhiggins wrote: In all seriousness, I'd recommend a cheap little mixer in the event that you need to turn the speakers down IMMEDIATELY. You don't want to leave your speakers at the mercy of your soundcard in case it decides to issue a jet of deafening noise.

-Sam
I'm using a simple monitor controller for this purpose:
http://www.smproaudio.com/index.php/en/ ... patch-plus

Works great so far. The dB scale on the knob isn't really accurate, so don't really on that.

I had to add a hum remover as my interface (NI Traktor Audio 2) doesn't have balanced outputs and I apparently had a ground loop in my setup:

http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/HD400.aspx

The knob tells you how much you're attenuating by. It's passive. Whatever you put into it, you're going to get out of it. All it does is cut, not boost. In all seriousness tho, the SM Pro NanaPatch+ was going to be my answer. Super cheap and great for all levels of audio (newb to pro)

paterpeter · Post by **paterpeter** » Fri Oct 04, 2013 8:34 pm

DSPDiva wrote: The knob tells you how much you're attenuating by. It's passive. Whatever you put into it, you're going to get out of it. All it does is cut, not boost.

I know that it's just attenuating, but -10dB on the scale doesn't mean -10 dB attenuation in practice. Well, at least it didn't when I measured with my SPL meter and white noise. It was more around -5 to -6 dB IIRC.

BertKoor · Post by **BertKoor** » Mon Oct 07, 2013 7:46 am

paterpeter wrote:-10dB on the scale doesn't mean -10 dB attenuation in practice. Well, at least it didn't when I measured with my SPL meter and white noise. It was more around -5 to -6 dB IIRC.

The actual level of attennuation depends on the output impedance of the source and the input impedance of whatever you have connected to it. It's a passive resistor network after all where everything influences everything. Me thinks if your source has an output impedance of 600 ohm and the other device has an input impedance of 10 kOhm, then the -10dB mark results in a level drop of -10dB exactly.

Anyway, it should go from total silence to full up. Use the scale for your own reference, not as scientific calibration.

paterpeter · Post by **paterpeter** » Mon Oct 07, 2013 7:57 am

BertKoor wrote:
paterpeter wrote:-10dB on the scale doesn't mean -10 dB attenuation in practice. Well, at least it didn't when I measured with my SPL meter and white noise. It was more around -5 to -6 dB IIRC.
The actual level of attennuation depends on the output impedance of the source and the input impedance of whatever you have connected to it. It's a passive resistor network after all where everything influences everything. Me thinks if your source has an output impedance of 600 ohm and the other device has an input impedance of 10 kOhm, then the -10dB mark results in a level drop of -10dB exactly.

Anyway, it should go from total silence to full up. Use the scale for your own reference, not as scientific calibration.

Ah, OK, that could be of course. I have no idea of electrical engineering. Thanks for the heads-up. I was under the somewhat naive impression that the scale was supposed to always work, given that Bel is a relative unit.

But I do as you said anyway. Specifically I marked the -6dB spot for my setup to use the K14 system.

Tomegun · Post by **Tomegun** » Tue Oct 15, 2013 12:09 am

Thought I might mention that "Parts Express" has a medium impedance remote volume control that sells for about $8.00. It's small and has 2 channel in & out using two approx 8" cables with gold RCA female connectors on the ends. It does have 4 tabs with holes for mounting. They are so low cost you could buy 2 and use one for each channel to adjust balance. No mute button.

Tomegun · Post by **Tomegun** » Tue Oct 15, 2013 12:11 am

masterhiggins wrote:I've had pretty good luck with these:

In all seriousness, I'd recommend a cheap little mixer in the event that you need to turn the speakers down IMMEDIATELY. You don't want to leave your speakers at the mercy of your soundcard in case it decides to issue a jet of deafening noise.

-Sam

Thought I might mention that "Parts Express" has a medium impedance remote volume control that sells for about $8.00. It's small and has 2 channel in & out using two approx 8" cables with gold RCA female connectors on the ends. It does have 4 tabs with holes for mounting. They are so low cost you could buy 2 and use one for each channel to adjust balance. No mute button.

Sorry, I clicked wrong button. Intended to reply to OP. Can't delete.

Tomegun

Hooking powered monitors directly to computer without mixer