Your next guitar?

[Uncle E]

I'm going to have this neck scalloped and put it on with a Black Floyd ...

SN16944A.jpg

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We've got a used scalloped Warmoth neck with a Floyd Rose nut that we can sell for $199. It's maple/maple, though.

[SJ_Digriz]

I'm going to have this neck scalloped and put it on with a Black Floyd ...

SN16944A.jpg

.

We've got a used scalloped Warmoth neck with a Floyd Rose nut that we can sell for $199. It's maple/maple, though.

Do you have a picture you could PM me?

[SJ_Digriz]

People with normal sized hands don't have to worry about this

LOL, I don't have huge hands or long fingers .. for example I can't palm a basketball (although it's close). But I play with my palm pretty square to the neck. Plus when I'm that high, I have my thumb well under with the tip pressed against the side of the heal. That position gives me lots of access without resting my palm on the heal or jamming the side of my hand against it. I probably learned it that way because I started on an old strat that a lot of people find restrictive.

[Uncle E]

but... surely: the longer you are around guitars, the less you get
attached to any particular one? they come and they go, and you'll
play any old piece of cr*p?

I'll noodle around on any old piece of cr*p. For leads and high gain, though, I'm pretty particular and don't like the way most guitars sound. Stock strats and teles, for example, I hate to use with any more gain than SRV would use (heavy fuzzes are OK). My strat with the Vintage Noiseless pickups, OTOH, is killer with gain but sounds dead and lifeless clean.

[hibidy]

Huba huba!

[SJ_Digriz]

yeah hibidy, that's gorgeous.

[Uncle E]

Do you have a picture you could PM me?

I'll send pictures on Monday.

[SJ_Digriz]

Do you have a picture you could PM me?

I'll send pictures on Monday.

Thanks, I'm kinda leaning dark neck though. Doesn't hurt to look, and maybe I'll just pick it up for another custom job.

[hibidy]

Poop. The guitar I listed is basswood. I thought only ibby did that.....then again, Suhr uses basswood.....

[Uncle E]

Poop. The guitar I listed is basswood. I thought only ibby did that.....then again, Suhr uses basswood.....

A maple top with a basswood back is one of Tom Anderson's favorite wood combinations. My Ibanez has a maple top on a mahogany back and my Melancon has a maple top on a swamp ash back, they all sound good. The Carvin I played when I was a kid was 100% maple and that sounded awful.

[SJ_Digriz]

Poop. The guitar I listed is basswood. I thought only ibby did that.....then again, Suhr uses basswood.....

A maple top with a basswood back is one of Tom Anderson's favorite wood combinations. My Ibanez has a maple top on a mahogany back and my Melancon has a maple top on a swamp ash back, they all sound good. The Carvin I played when I was a kid was 100% maple and that sounded awful.

My take on the the "guitar wood" theory is ...

Every single type and piece of wood ever, no matter how cheap or expensive, has a small % chance that it will sound good when it is connected to some other random piece of wood be it neck, fret board or body. There is some combination of those 3 that make a guitar work. Wood type is not one of the things that matters very much. It's possible that some woods and wood combinations give you a better shot at ending up with a good guitar. But, I've played a $150 Squire Tele (with $800 replacement pickups), that felt unbelievable .. 2" of varnish on the neck and all. It had unbelievable tone carriage. It had natural harmonic feedback in 10 or 12 places. That one guitar, plus later schecters and epiphones convinced me that you can get a tremendous guitar at any price. And, I've played a $15,000 guitar or 3 that sound like a dog fart squeezed from a balloon.

In other words, I don't get all choked up over what the "wood" is. It's more about the lottery of the pieces working together. I could be wrong, but that's been my experience. (EDIT: also, maybe even more important .. properly placed electronics that fit the general tone of the wood, and a good tail piece, and construction quality that allows for at least decent intonation IMO are far more important than the wood)

[Uncle E]

I can certainly go along with it not being ALL about the wood. The pickups, bridge, fingerboard wood, and finish can all be equally important, if not more. In fact, if a guitar has EMG's, a Floyd Rose, and a thick poly finish, I highly doubt that I'd be able to tell the difference between any body wood. However, with low output pickups, a tune-o-matic bridge, and little to no finish, I think I could consistently tell the difference between mahogany, maple, and swamp ash.

FWIW, the descriptions of woods' tones on Tom Anderson's and Warmoth's sites are consistent with what I've found.

[SJ_Digriz]

FWIW I wasn't saying wood doesn't contribute tone ... I think it does, especially in the scenarios you describe. I'm just saying that you could play 200 American Standards and 3 of them will be horrible, 50 will be soso, most of them will be very similar and play/sound nice, and a couple will sound absolutely amazing. But all of them will have a general tonal quality. I just attribute that bell curve to the luck of the draw of accidentally getting compatible pieces of wood together sometimes. Of course I only have anecdotal evidence of that.

[hibidy]

Man, prices of the "high end" instrument has just gotten to the ultimate ridiculous price. 11K for the Fodera bass is just nonsense. I don't give a f**k how good they are. I don't give a f**k HOW good the player is. That is robbery. Besides, not too long ago the same bass could be had for 5K.

[Mister Natural]

if I had won the lotto today :
http://elderly.com/vintage/items/45U-1685.htm

omg !