IK MUltimedia UNO Synth

[Peter - IK Multimedia]

USB noise in my experience cannot be solved by rf solutions like ferrite clamps and shielded cables. The USB noise is usually coming from within the computer (both hum and sometimes even hard drive chatter) and not being picked up by radio frequencies. There is no harm in trying that solution - it won't make it worse but my experience with this issue is a USB isolator is needed.

I had USB hum using specific laptops in the past and I was only able to solve that issue with the Hum Eliminator gadget. This is not a USB isolator. The hum was being picked up by the audio interface and could be heard on speakers and headphones.


https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Groun ... T4ZADSWQ4X

Same here. And I have an Ebtech unit like that in my home studio since one circuit definitely had hum and it was easier than getting someone to work on the wiring (I rent a house). Works like a charm for years now.

[hellomrbike]

USB noise in my experience cannot be solved by rf solutions like ferrite clamps and shielded cables. The USB noise is usually coming from within the computer (both hum and sometimes even hard drive chatter) and not being picked up by radio frequencies. There is no harm in trying that solution - it won't make it worse but my experience with this issue is a USB isolator is needed.

I had USB hum using specific laptops in the past and I was only able to solve that issue with the Hum Eliminator gadget. This is not a USB isolator. The hum was being picked up by the audio interface and could be heard on speakers and headphones.


https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Groun ... T4ZADSWQ4X

Same here. And I have an Ebtech unit like that in my home studio since one circuit definitely had hum and it was easier than getting someone to work on the wiring (I rent a house). Works like a charm for years now.

Would a ground loop noise isolator on the 3.5mm output side also do the trick? e.g.

https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Ground-Isol ... B01M1671I0

My suspicion is that this is equivalent to the modified TRS cable, but I'm not quite confident. Since USB isolators cost around 3x more than an audio ground loop isolator, I'd like to make sure I'm exhausting the simpler options before going with the more expensive (albeit probably most correct) choice.

[Scotty]

I don't if this item that you posted is a workable solution but like you I doubt it. My suspicion is that the engineers at IK tested their solution before posting that a USB Isolator was the way to go; maybe Peter or someone directly at IK could give some real insight.

[hellomrbike]

I don't if this item that you posted is a workable solution but like you I doubt it. My suspicion is that the engineers at IK tested their solution before posting that a USB Isolator was the way to go; maybe Peter or someone directly at IK could give some real insight.

I hope so!

The reason I ask is that I’ve seen a 3.5mm-based isolator used to solve similar ground loop issues, namely an iPhone connected to a car stereo through auxiliary input, on USB power.

So if the origin of the ground loop is the same, then this might fix the problem in an inexpensive way. Anyway, I hope Peter can provide some insight from IK’s side in this regard.

[Scotty]

IK shared this preview of their upcoming UNO editor.
https://cgi.ikmultimedia.com/ikforum/vi ... 43&t=17574

[aMUSEd]

Looks very nice - might have to pick up one of these

[hellomrbike]

I don't if this item that you posted is a workable solution but like you I doubt it. My suspicion is that the engineers at IK tested their solution before posting that a USB Isolator was the way to go; maybe Peter or someone directly at IK could give some real insight.

I hope so!

The reason I ask is that I’ve seen a 3.5mm-based isolator used to solve similar ground loop issues, namely an iPhone connected to a car stereo through auxiliary input, on USB power.

So if the origin of the ground loop is the same, then this might fix the problem in an inexpensive way. Anyway, I hope Peter can provide some insight from IK’s side in this regard.

A brief update: I picked up a 3.5mm ground loop isolator (GLI) off of Amazon:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M16 ... UTF8&psc=1

And to my great surprise, it works! The remaining noise is almost imperceptible – I have to crank the gain on my interface to near max level to hear any kind of residual noise (but even then it could be unrelated to the ground).

There are concerns that a cheap GLI can have abnormally high inductance, leading it to act like a high-pass filter (see https://www.caraudio.com/topic/502056-g ... ills-bass/). I did some (very preliminary) testing on my machine, however, and I saw no apparent signal attenuation in the low end through use of the GLI.

If people are interested, I can do more rigorous testing using different waves and an open filter, as well as some filter sweeps.

[Scotty]

Very cool. Keep us updated. I am not having the issue here but if I do.. I know what to try next. Thanks!

I don't if this item that you posted is a workable solution but like you I doubt it. My suspicion is that the engineers at IK tested their solution before posting that a USB Isolator was the way to go; maybe Peter or someone directly at IK could give some real insight.

I hope so!

The reason I ask is that I’ve seen a 3.5mm-based isolator used to solve similar ground loop issues, namely an iPhone connected to a car stereo through auxiliary input, on USB power.

So if the origin of the ground loop is the same, then this might fix the problem in an inexpensive way. Anyway, I hope Peter can provide some insight from IK’s side in this regard.

A brief update: I picked up a 3.5mm ground loop isolator (GLI) off of Amazon:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M16 ... UTF8&psc=1

And to my great surprise, it works! The remaining noise is almost imperceptible – I have to crank the gain on my interface to near max level to hear any kind of residual noise (but even then it could be unrelated to the ground).

There are concerns that a cheap GLI can have abnormally high inductance, leading it to act like a high-pass filter (see https://www.caraudio.com/topic/502056-g ... ills-bass/). I did some (very preliminary) testing on my machine, however, and I saw no apparent signal attenuation in the low end through use of the GLI.

If people are interested, I can do more rigorous testing using different waves and an open filter, as well as some filter sweeps.

[SLiC]

UNO editor and Firmware update out.

https://www.ikmultimedia.com/news/?item_id=14886

Editor (which is also a VST plug in) may merit its own thread.....

[Scotty]

Yep very happy to see this is a VST plugin as well as stand alone. I did the firmware flash to 1.1.1 which is necessary and will test it later today. The interface is excellent and it looks to me that all midi accessible parameters are available. To me this is a huge selling point for an analog synth. I use my Moog Subphatty with the editor and it leads to more creative use of the synth at least in my case. Most analog synths don't have anywhere near this level of midi controller support.

[Peter - IK Multimedia]

Editor (which is also a VST plug in) may merit its own thread.....

I agreed before I read your post viewtopic.php?f=102&t=510546

[BONES]

I bought one today but I think it's broken. I played around with one in the shop. I watched the guy unpack it and set it up and it worked fine but mine doesn't. When I switch it on, the CAL message flashes, as it should. When it stops and I attempt to change presets - red LED above the Preset button - the display goes to UNO and the sound doesn't change. I can turn any of the knobs and see the value change in the display but it has zero effect on the sound. When I go back to Preset the preset number has changed by however many times I pressed the up/down buttons, even though the sound is the same.

Presently, the only way I can change the sound is to play the demo, in which case it sticks with the sound it was playing when I stopped it. None of this feels like some setting that needs to be changed, it feels like the unit is broken and the IK website says there is no way to reset the device. I've switched it off and on a few times and I've updated the firmware but neither has helped.

[Scotty]

Getting something home that is defective after convincing yourself that the purchase make sense is a big let down. Hopefully you can swap it out and then see what you think of it.

[SLiC]

I bought one today but I think it's broken. I played around with one in the shop. I watched the guy unpack it and set it up and it worked fine but mine doesn't. When I switch it on, the CAL message flashes, as it should. When it stops and I attempt to change presets - red LED above the Preset button - the display goes to UNO and the sound doesn't change. I can turn any of the knobs and see the value change in the display but it has zero effect on the sound. When I go back to Preset the preset number has changed by however many times I pressed the up/down buttons, even though the sound is the same.

Presently, the only way I can change the sound is to play the demo, in which case it sticks with the sound it was playing when I stopped it. None of this feels like some setting that needs to be changed, it feels like the unit is broken and the IK website says there is no way to reset the device. I've switched it off and on a few times and I've updated the firmware but neither has helped.

Try this (from Gearslutz forum)

Sending the following two SySex messages should enable this for you and get you working.

F0 00 21 1A 02 01 11 01 7F F7
F0 00 21 1A 02 01 21 00 05 01 F7

MIDI Tools is a great easy to use tool for sending or receiving different MIDI and SySex messages. Check this out here. If you are unfamiliar with SySex messages, let the support team walk you through this process.

[Scotty]

Slic can you provide the gearslutz link?