Suggestions for synergistic semi modular combinations.

[WatchTheGuitar]

yeah, just be careful of depth, some modules require a deeper case, as i discovered after buying a spring reverb

and yup, both the b modular rack and 2600 are 19 inch so will fit the rack mentioned above.

Yeah I had a Behringer rack that was wobbly due to a Doepfer module being deeper than the rack, but I also recently stuck it in a cheap Stagg 8u 19 inch rack which sorts the issue, was only £20.

[Shabdahbriah]

The 2600 is 8U, the 84hp racks are 3u. You can get this, or something like it, in 12u all night all day. I have two racks that are similar.



https://www.amazon.com/OnStage-RS7030-O ... 149&sr=1-4

That will leave you 1u along the bottom (or top) for a 1u expansion rack should you fill up the 3u rack. I should also mention that if the rod along the top interferes with wiring on the back of your 2600, you can just leave it off, it won't hurt anything with lightweight synth gear.

Definitely the price conscious/practical hot-tip.

For a handy utility between the 2600 and whatever you might put beneath it, that 1U would facilitate this:

LANGE ANNA - BUFFERED + ATTENUVERTED MULTS.png

Available pre-built, here:

https://calsynth.com/collections/calsyn ... age-source

details here:

https://www.st-modular.com/lange%20anna.htm

The Behringer power supply is much beefier than the tip-top power supply with 1+1+0.5 amps vs 1 amp total.

The TipTop end caps are much bigger and much more suited to putting on the desk. The Behringers are too small for skiff-unfriendly modules. This doesn't matter if you're going to put everything in a rack, I'm just giving you all of the detail.

Of course, the Behringer is $10 cheaper ( in the U.S., I don't know about elsewhere).

I wasn't aware Behringer made these rack units. I have several of their power supplies though, and they are a great value compared to the Tip-Top, and lower-end 4MS PSU's.

[WatchTheGuitar]

The other thing I’d add re “Skiff friendly” modules is you can get packs of standoffs from places like Amazon for a tenner that let you squeeze deep modules into shallow racks.
They’re like lube for eurorack.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/XLX-Male-Femal ... C69&sr=8-3

I managed to fit ES-3 and 6 modules into a Behringer 104 using those.

[vurt]

The other thing I’d add re “Skiff friendly” modules is you can get packs of standoffs from places like Amazon for a tenner that let you squeeze deep modules into shallow racks.
They’re like lube for eurorack.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/XLX-Male-Femal ... C69&sr=8-3

I managed to fit ES-3 and 6 modules into a Behringer 104 using those.

ah so it stands out front of the rack?
nice idea

[WatchTheGuitar]

yeah I wouldn’t recommend them for loads of modules in an oft changing rack layout as it’s a pain having to screw in the standoffs and then the screws into them, but fine for one or two problematic modules to fit into a mainly static layout.

[ghettosynth]

Not going to lie, a module, especially an expensive one like something from Expert Sleepers, sitting up above the rack with it's private bits all exposed, yeah, that's not going to work for me. I'm getting triggered just thinking about your rack.
I would just cut two bits of wood and screw the rack into some homemade end-cheeks. End cheeks and wood were made for each other.

[WatchTheGuitar]

a module, especially an expensive one like something from Expert Sleepers, sitting up above the rack with it's private bits all exposed

Oh the drama. It raises the thing by a few centimetres and if you have other modules either side you don’t see any internal components just the top end of a PCB.

[ghettosynth]

a module, especially an expensive one like something from Expert Sleepers, sitting up above the rack with it's private bits all exposed

Oh the drama. It raises the thing by a few centimetres and if you have other modules either side you don’t see any internal components just the top end of a PCB.

Different strokes, I wouldn't do it. It's not about seeing it, it's the potential to have something drop in there and inadvertently make contact. A cable, a runaway rack screw, whatever. There's a potential for damage. It only takes a second for something like that to happen. Is it unlikely, sure, but it isn't a risk that I'd take. I don't think that it's necessary and I'd rather buy a case that fits properly or buy modules that fit in the case. When it's adjacent to a module like that, there's a much greater chance that whatever falls in might bounce into the module as opposed to just dropping through to the table/floor/bottom of the case.

I get it, bandmates have always done stuff like this, I mean, why replace the fuse when you can just wrap the old one in a bit of tin foil? There's even a youtube video from perfect circuit showing you how to do it. Knock yourselves out, I'm going to follow best practices and keep the front of my racks closed off.

[WatchTheGuitar]

I was raised on punk rock

[pixel85]

The rack mentioned above will do the job. I had similar cheap 8U and I managed to have both, Behringer rack and 2600 So if 8U can handle both, 12U will do it even better.
Behringer Eurorack rack is great. Nothing to complain.

Tip 1:
The common problem with those cheap racks are holes that are messy and sometimes you need to use a lot of energy to screw screws. It's a common complaint on eg. Thomann. But nothing show stopping.
Recently I bought cheap rack rails + custom size wooden panels (about 7€ per piece) and I did my own rack because I wanted it to be straight. In my vertical synth setup angled rack is not good but it's my own situation.

Tip 2:
It's better to keep 2600 above because otherwise, at some point when you'll have lots of connections, hanging cables will not cover 2600 as much as it would be the case if you would put Eurorack above 2600.

[WatchTheGuitar]

yes, agree number 1 determinant for what goes where vertically in the rack is how many crucial controls might get covered by hanging cables.

[ghettosynth]

yes, agree number 1 determinant for what goes where vertically in the rack is how many crucial controls might get covered by hanging cables.

Related, I bite my lip and just pay for shorter cables even though they're often the same price as longer cables. corollary: Tip-top stackable cables are worth having.

[WatchTheGuitar]

yes, agree number 1 determinant for what goes where vertically in the rack is how many crucial controls might get covered by hanging cables.

Related, I bite my lip and just pay for shorter cables even though they're often the same price as longer cables. corollary: Tip-top stackable cables are worth having.

if you’re not massively fussed about a name brand and are in the UK Gear4Music do packs of six 20cm leads for £5 each. There are postal charges too so I bought 5 packs.
https://www.gear4music.com/Keyboards-an ... music/33P6

They also do 40cm packs for £5.49
https://www.gear4music.com/Keyboards-an ... music/33P9

Did also get some 30cm TipTop stackables from Juno for £6.75 each, they do various colours

https://www.juno.co.uk/search/?q%5Ball% ... r=price_up

[SHall1000]

I get a pack each of 20, 40 and 60 cm cables from Gear4Music for £21 with postage. The colour assortment goes lovely with the Blue Marvin and have brought me in touch with my feminine side.

[pixel85]

I think that another important factor is how "bendable" cables are. Some are so stiff that even after months keep bended position in which they were packed. I hate those.
My favourite are PolarNoise from Amazon. Quite flexible, not totally floppy, more like 50:50.
Man, I lost way too much money on eurorack cables because I like to colour code them per function (I still have to figure out best config) and then of course each colour require more than one length. I'm worried that I'll spend more on cables than on modules