I just ordered my first electric guitar

[CYKLVM]

I have a PRS SE CE 24 arriving friday

I also got a dynamic microphone, replaced my keyboard with one that has hammer action keys, and in the future I'm planning to get studio monitors.

I am happy

[zerocrossing]

The first thing you're probably going to want to do is bring it to a professional to get a proper set-up. This can make a huge difference in playability and tone.

[jamcat]

I disagree there.
This isn't some vintage instrument that's been around the block for a few decades. New guitars come out of the factory properly setup. PRS in particular are known for their highly calibrated factory setups. When you buy a PRS, you're buying it for that.

The BEST setup your guitar will likely ever have is when it comes out of the factory. This is particularly true of PRS!

Chances are better that your local guy is going to make it worse. There's a lot of trust going into someone you don't know there, and things can go VERY sideways. Bottom line, if your local guy wants to do more than a saddle adjustment, you should grab your guitar and run. DON'T let a stranger grind the frets of your new PRS, file your nut, or start sanding your fretboard.

You would do better getting some videos from Dan Erlewine (or even just StewMac's YouTube) and buying a cheap used electric for $100 to practice on. You really only need to learn how to set saddle height and intonation, and spring tension (if you have a floating bridge), none of which is difficult. And you probably only need to do any of that if you change string gauges. This is something to worry about later on, as you develop your personal preferences and playing style. And by then, you'll know if you need to get your guitar setup, and why. If you're not sure why you're doing it, don't.


This is probably everything you'll ever need:

Bookmark it and come back to it in a year and a half, but not before then!

[lfm]

I'd just say, congrats to your new guitar.

[mystran]

You really only need to learn how to set saddle height and intonation, which isn't that difficult. And you probably only need to adjust that if you change string gauges.

Saddle height, intonation and the truss rod.

The last one is something everyone should really learn to adjust, because in many climates it needs to be adjusted a couple of times a year, whenever there's a significant shift in environmental conditions (mainly humidity that causes the wood of the neck to expand and shrink). Unless you're in the business of constantly changing your string gauges, the bridge is kinda "set once and forget about it."

That said, on most electrics all of these things are really easy to do once you learn how and mostly the changes are reversible anyway. With truss rod one should be careful to use the exact correct tool (don't want to damage the head of the rod; slightly wrong size tool might work but risks damage over time due to slipping) and remember that 1/4th of a turn is already "large adjustment" and about the maximum you want to turn it at once without letting the neck settle for a few hours (sometimes takes a while to get the full effect)... but that's about it.

[zerocrossing]

You really only need to learn how to set saddle height and intonation, which isn't that difficult. And you probably only need to adjust that if you change string gauges.

Saddle height, intonation and the truss rod.

The last one is something everyone should really learn to adjust, because in many climates it needs to be adjusted a couple of times a year, whenever there's a significant shift in environmental conditions (mainly humidity that causes the wood of the neck to expand and shrink). Unless you're in the business of constantly changing your string gauges, the bridge is kinda "set once and forget about it."

That said, on most electrics all of these things are really easy to do once you learn how and mostly the changes are reversible anyway. With truss rod one should be careful to use the exact correct tool (don't want to damage the head of the rod; slightly wrong size tool might work but risks damage over time due to slipping) and remember that 1/4th of a turn is already "large adjustment" and about the maximum you want to turn it at once without letting the neck settle for a few hours (sometimes takes a while to get the full effect)... but that's about it.

Right. I've seen a lot of shipped guitars need some truss rod adjustment, and at that point you'll probably want to make sure all the intonation is right as well. I've never bought a PRS, but I imagine the cheap models are not expertly set up before they leave the factory, but I could be wrong.

[zvenx]

One of PRS'S 'rules' are even the SE's are set up from factory.



rsp

[tapper mike]

Shipping changes everything. Changes in humidity can affect neck relief and fret sprout.

[lfm]

Saddle height, intonation and the truss rod.

I might add nut slots height, as well. Check with a 0.1 cent tuner if fretting first fret is anything off at all.
- that might be a job at a shop if not having slot files

Even if off just 15-20 cents fretting first fret is enough to start getting non clean chords all over.
- especially if tuning to open strings, then fretted get awkward

But it's the last thing as action is determined. A final intonation in saddles might be needed if slots are off and adjusted.

I've seen crazy comments like "have gibson fixed the sharp first fret on 335s"
- duh, you just file down the slot until perfect

Having that pefect fretting high up and also some open strings will sound terrific.

But just enjoy the new guitar and take things as they appear. I assume first electric does not mean first guitar, so probably some acoustics around and some experience.

[jamcat]

Now we're getting into filing nuts.
Let's not get too far ahead here before someone throws in planing the fretboard.
This is why I left out the truss rod.

I am happy

Don't worry, KVR will fix that for you!

[Uncle E]

Shipping changes everything. Changes in humidity can affect neck relief and fret sprout.

Fortunately, the humidity levels in the US are identical to Indonesia.

[mystran]

Saddle height, intonation and the truss rod.

I might add nut slots height, as well. Check with a 0.1 cent tuner if fretting first fret is anything off at all.
- that might be a job at a shop if not having slot files

Besides requiring specialized files, it's also not easily reversible if you file too much.

[zerocrossing]

Shipping changes everything. Changes in humidity can affect neck relief and fret sprout.

Fortunately, the humidity levels in the US are identical to Indonesia.

It's not necessarily the difference in climate between the factory and destination, but the shifts in climate and temperature along the way. I live in a really moderate part of the country and it can start out damp and 50º in the morning and by noon be dry as a bone and 85º. Imagine all the heating and cooling and vibration that can happen between the factory, the warehouse, and the truck going over hundreds of speed bumps on its way to your house.

Anyway, is it possible you get a shipped guitar and it's fine? Sure. Have I spent afternoons adjusting guitars taken out of boxes and put on display at music stores? Sure. Usually it's just the truss rod that goes a bit slack, and a bit of intonation adjustment. Filing frets? Uh, no. I'd never recommend that at all. Not on a nice new guitar.

[mystran]

Anyway, is it possible you get a shipped guitar and it's fine? Sure. Have I spent afternoons adjusting guitars taken out of boxes and put on display at music stores? Sure. Usually it's just the truss rod that goes a bit slack, and a bit of intonation adjustment. Filing frets? Uh, no. I'd never recommend that at all. Not on a nice new guitar.

Yeah, pretty much.

Also the thing with truss rod in particular is that until you get the neck relief right (for the local environment), there's really no point in even trying to adjust anything else. If it's off, you'll probably just make things worse by touching the bridge. Been there, done that, always check the relief first.

[tapper mike]

Actually shifts in temps/humidity can be a challenge. Indonesia is basically a jungle. Lots of rain heat humidity.
Closer to central Mexico. My MIM Strat is going through hell right now and I might need to raise the action to compensate not just adjust the neck. The strat is last year new. The Tele which also is last year new and from Escanaba has only needed minor neck adjustment.

The reason for the popularity of roasted necks is due to the fact it sucks out the sugar and petrifies the wood. End result a stiffer lighter neck which is less susceptible to climate conditions.

In the old days I might have to do a neck adjustment twice a year for the first three years and then the neck would lock in. If I had my druthers I'd rather have an ibby type neck with three to five pieces of wood. I used to have a washburn falcon eons ago. Tough as nails completely resistant to changing weather be it sub zero cold dry desert heat or drowning in humidity like Miami in Summer.