Need advice on mixer repair / replacement / alternative

Anything about hardware musical instruments.
Post Reply New Topic
RELATED
PRODUCTS

Post

:help: I'm seeking advice and/or suggestions on fixing a problem that's developed with my studio audio setup. I've been using a small Behringer mixer (UB1002) to connect my external gear to my sound card (E-MU 0404). It's developed a critical failure: one of the switches that's got to be in the audio path is dying. It's already bad enough that I basically don't have a reliable signal path out to speakers/phones. :( Local repair shop quoted me ~$75 to fix it, for which sum I could buy a comparable mixer new. The mixer is being used mostly for signal routing, but it's also the only mic pre's I've got. It also interfaces two stereo signals in (from my keyboards), and connects the audio out from the PC to my speakers / headphones (which is currently an unplug / re-plug action to trade between them). My setup is only used for recording myself, a mix of external audio (keys, guitar, vocals), and in-the-box stuff. So I have to have at least one mic pre (have very occasional need for two). Currently my "monitors" are a set of computer speakers that interface w/a 3.5mm stereo plug. Also, the 0404 is also the dongle for ProteusX, so I need to keep that card in the box.

My options appear to be:

1) Pay the shop to fix it.
2) Buy a comparable replacement.
3) Open it up, see if I can get a replacement switch and do the repair myself (I'm perfectly OK w/doing that kind of soldering).
4) Change my overall approach to audio connections and routing.

I've seen at one site a nifty little switch that's designed to let you swap between headphones and speakers w/a button push. That would largely solve the output routing (only downside is it lacks any volume control, which I'd then have to do in software). But I'd still need to deal w/the input side. I've done a little looking at other hardware options but nothing's jumped out at me yet as the perfect solution. :)

Thoughts? Thanks.

DaveL
Last edited by DaveL60 on Wed Dec 26, 2007 9:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
You can twist perceptions, reality won't budge.
-- Rush Show Don't Tell

Post

You buy Behringer because you want something that will last a year.

Post

james0tucson wrote:You buy Behringer because you want something that will last a year.
Well, it's been 2 or 3. :) I did realize at the time that I was buying budget gear. But :shrug: this is a hobby for me and one that I don't get a lot of time for, so I try to keep thing economical.

Anyone know if TAPCO is any better? Some of their smaller mixers look about comparable, feature-wise, to what I've been using. Or is that just like buying Behringer?

DaveL
You can twist perceptions, reality won't budge.
-- Rush Show Don't Tell

Post

DaveL60 wrote:
james0tucson wrote:You buy Behringer because you want something that will last a year.
Well, it's been 2 or 3. :) I did realize at the time that I was buying budget gear. But :shrug: this is a hobby for me and one that I don't get a lot of time for, so I try to keep thing economical.

Anyone know if TAPCO is any better? Some of their smaller mixers look about comparable, feature-wise, to what I've been using. Or is that just like buying Behringer?

DaveL
I use a UB502 for my control section, and if it ever crapped out, I would just buy whatever the comparable one is now. It's not worth repairing if the repair cost is that close to the replacement cost.

My UB502 has lasted 4 years without problems. So has my big SL-2442FX-pro 24 channel, and I bought it used.

Post

I'd recommend replacing it with something of better quality.

Post

(I used to service audio equipment)

I just had a look at a picture of that mixer. All the switches are of the pushbutton variety, which is common and usually reliable.

When these types of switches crap out, it's usually one of the following:
1) contacts on the switch "plunger" are dirty or failing
2) [edit] cracked/broken solder joint

For #1, the first thing to try is to clean it. Often it's just a matter of spraying contact cleaner into the switch while exercising it.For more serious issues, it's sometimes possible to pop the "plunger" out (warning: fussy, and little parts can fly out) and clean the contacts directly.

I am a fan of some contact enhancers like Tweek, Cramolin, etc. If cleaning makes a difference, then finishing off with a drop of these enhancers usually makes the switch work well for years.

You can usually confirm #2 visually, and the fix is to just resolder the switch.

If you successfully make it into the mixer and can solder, maybe the shop will sell you one switch which you can replace yourself.

BTW, Musician's Friend has these mixers on sale for $49, so paying $75 for a fix doesn't seem such a good idea ;)
Last edited by kenn on Thu Dec 27, 2007 3:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I have a cunning plan ...

Post

@ kenn: Thanks. I'm guessing #2 was coming unsoldered / bad solder joint?

It's clearly not #2. Right now I get crackle when I actuate or wiggle the switch, which seems to me like it's your #1 (dirty / failing contacts), so I guess the first thing should be trying contact cleaner. I partially disassembled it yesterday, but if I'm going to replace the switch, I have to pull off every knob and every 1/4" jack retaining nut. :dog: Not a small job. And while Mouser Electronics probably have a suitable switch, I'll have to pay $6 to ship a $2.50 part. :shock: :) OTOH, the disassembly also makes me pretty sure it's not a bad solder joint since (a) the solder points are clearly visible on the bottom of the circuit card and look fine, and (b) the mixer was just fine for several years before this problem cropped up.

So, once I get the past-due holiday letters and cards mailed, I'll see if I can find some contact cleaner.

Meanwhile, if I have to (or decide to) replace it, the TAPCO Mix 100 (TAPCO link / Sweetwater link) is looking good to me as a replacement: comparable cost, pretty much identical signal flow, and the reviews I've found on the web have all been quite positive about the quality of both sound and construction.

And I agree: spending $75 to fix it was an option but only a nonsensical option. :)

DaveL
You can twist perceptions, reality won't budge.
-- Rush Show Don't Tell

Post

Mackie 1202 VLZ Pro

a bunch of these on Ebay with 0 bids atm...nice little swiss army knife mixer...
Image

Post

DaveL60 wrote:.I'm guessing #2 was coming unsoldered / bad solder joint?
yes, sorry! :oops:
I have a cunning plan ...

Post

Chuck E. Jesus wrote:a bunch of these on Ebay with 0 bids atm...nice little swiss army knife mixer...
Agree that would be an excellent tool, but looking at the "buy it now" prices, I think it's more than I want to spend right now, plus I think it's physically enough bigger to be an awkward fit for my setup. Thanks for the suggestion, tho, I hadn't done any eBay looking.

DaveL
You can twist perceptions, reality won't budge.
-- Rush Show Don't Tell

Post

DaveL60 wrote:
Chuck E. Jesus wrote:a bunch of these on Ebay with 0 bids atm...nice little swiss army knife mixer...
Agree that would be an excellent tool, but looking at the "buy it now" prices, I think it's more than I want to spend right now, plus I think it's physically enough bigger to be an awkward fit for my setup. Thanks for the suggestion, tho, I hadn't done any eBay looking.

DaveL
i'm assuming you could get one cheaper because there were at least five that i saw...there is also the small Yamaha, i heard they are ok....
Image

Post Reply

Return to “Hardware (Instruments and Effects)”