I also got a dynamic microphone, replaced my keyboard with one that has hammer action keys, and in the future I'm planning to get studio monitors.
I am happy
Saddle height, intonation and the truss rod.jamcat wrote: Mon Jul 13, 2026 7:01 pmYou really only need to learn how to set saddle height and intonation, which isn't that difficult. And you probably only need to adjust that if you change string gauges.
Right. I've seen a lot of shipped guitars need some truss rod adjustment, and at that point you'll probably want to make sure all the intonation is right as well. I've never bought a PRS, but I imagine the cheap models are not expertly set up before they leave the factory, but I could be wrong.mystran wrote: Mon Jul 13, 2026 7:53 pmSaddle height, intonation and the truss rod.jamcat wrote: Mon Jul 13, 2026 7:01 pmYou really only need to learn how to set saddle height and intonation, which isn't that difficult. And you probably only need to adjust that if you change string gauges.
The last one is something everyone should really learn to adjust, because in many climates it needs to be adjusted a couple of times a year, whenever there's a significant shift in environmental conditions (mainly humidity that causes the wood of the neck to expand and shrink). Unless you're in the business of constantly changing your string gauges, the bridge is kinda "set once and forget about it."
That said, on most electrics all of these things are really easy to do once you learn how and mostly the changes are reversible anyway. With truss rod one should be careful to use the exact correct tool (don't want to damage the head of the rod; slightly wrong size tool might work but risks damage over time due to slipping) and remember that 1/4th of a turn is already "large adjustment" and about the maximum you want to turn it at once without letting the neck settle for a few hours (sometimes takes a while to get the full effect)... but that's about it.
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