Hey LM,
How's the progress on your guitar? What did you do with the T2 logo?
Pictures?
Kind of OT: Lunch Money!
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- KVRAF
- 9096 posts since 5 Feb, 2004
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- KVRAF
- 12977 posts since 29 Sep, 2003 from Ottawa, Canada
SNAP!
I forgot about the logo!! It's been promised to someone, and will become a truss rod cover.
You'll see pics when it's all done, but I forgot about it!! Now I feel bad for the person it's been promised to.
Beyond that, I've been busy moving to a one-bedroom apartment with my girlfriend. That's been taking up a lot of time, for some strange reason. Recording will suck at the new place.
Also, I'll have to use my dad's shop to work on the guitar from this moment onward.
Last time I worked on it, I had finished the block inlays for the fretboard. Half of them came out great, and half of them are kind of sucky (crooked or whatnot). Guess which half I did first...
. So right now the dilemna is whether to scrap the fretboard (thus saving the inlays before they're glued in and sanded down) and start from scratch, whether to finish it (blemishes and all, as a testament to my amateur efforts), or whether to forget about block inlays and do a different kind of inlay.
I'd prefer doing blocks because it's meant to be like a Gibson Lucille. However, now that I've done one fretboard I realize how tricky doing blocks can be. It's not that the inlaying itself is difficult, but even measuring twice, the SLIGHTEST bit of crookedness is instantly visible, meaning that everything has to be absolutely perfect to look right. Other inlays (ie. PRS bird inlays) can be a bit 'off' and still look right.
Quite a dilemna.
The neck is profiled and ready to be shaped. I've been holding off because I wanted to do it after the fretboard's attached. Makes sense, right? Why do work on one part if the other part's still a mess.
Mostly, it's taking forever for 2 reasons:
1. Lack of access to the right tools and workspace
2. Making mistakes that have to be corrected before the next phase begins.
To top it off, the maple cap that I wanted to use has a slight 'cupping' to it. I'm currently trying to straighten it and determine how many pounds of pressure are required to keep it flat. If it's within tolerance, wood glue will hold it (a wood glue bond is actually stronger than the wood itself, if you do it right!). If not, I have to order a new top as well.
Bleah!
Thanks for asking, though!!
Greg
I forgot about the logo!! It's been promised to someone, and will become a truss rod cover.
You'll see pics when it's all done, but I forgot about it!! Now I feel bad for the person it's been promised to.Beyond that, I've been busy moving to a one-bedroom apartment with my girlfriend. That's been taking up a lot of time, for some strange reason. Recording will suck at the new place.
Also, I'll have to use my dad's shop to work on the guitar from this moment onward.Last time I worked on it, I had finished the block inlays for the fretboard. Half of them came out great, and half of them are kind of sucky (crooked or whatnot). Guess which half I did first...
. So right now the dilemna is whether to scrap the fretboard (thus saving the inlays before they're glued in and sanded down) and start from scratch, whether to finish it (blemishes and all, as a testament to my amateur efforts), or whether to forget about block inlays and do a different kind of inlay.I'd prefer doing blocks because it's meant to be like a Gibson Lucille. However, now that I've done one fretboard I realize how tricky doing blocks can be. It's not that the inlaying itself is difficult, but even measuring twice, the SLIGHTEST bit of crookedness is instantly visible, meaning that everything has to be absolutely perfect to look right. Other inlays (ie. PRS bird inlays) can be a bit 'off' and still look right.
Quite a dilemna.
The neck is profiled and ready to be shaped. I've been holding off because I wanted to do it after the fretboard's attached. Makes sense, right? Why do work on one part if the other part's still a mess.
Mostly, it's taking forever for 2 reasons:
1. Lack of access to the right tools and workspace
2. Making mistakes that have to be corrected before the next phase begins.
To top it off, the maple cap that I wanted to use has a slight 'cupping' to it. I'm currently trying to straighten it and determine how many pounds of pressure are required to keep it flat. If it's within tolerance, wood glue will hold it (a wood glue bond is actually stronger than the wood itself, if you do it right!). If not, I have to order a new top as well.
Bleah!
Thanks for asking, though!!
Greg
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- KVRAF
- Topic Starter
- 9096 posts since 5 Feb, 2004
Hmm. I'm considering building one myself, just a budy and buying a pre-made neck. I have no experience whatsoever though.
If you have requests for Korg VST features or changes, they are listening at https://support.korguser.net/hc/en-us/requests/new
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- KVRAF
- 12977 posts since 29 Sep, 2003 from Ottawa, Canada
If you buy a pre-made neck, there aren't too many other things to screw up. You just need to make sure 2 things are taken care of properly:
1. Neck pocket has to be tight and the right depth
2. Bridge has to be at the right location and be the right height. (ex. you can't put a Tune-o-Matic style bridge on a guitar whose neck runs parallel to the body, because it will position the strings too high up).
Greg
1. Neck pocket has to be tight and the right depth
2. Bridge has to be at the right location and be the right height. (ex. you can't put a Tune-o-Matic style bridge on a guitar whose neck runs parallel to the body, because it will position the strings too high up).
Greg
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- KVRAF
- Topic Starter
- 9096 posts since 5 Feb, 2004
Any idea wheer to get nice custom necks?
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- KVRAF
- 12977 posts since 29 Sep, 2003 from Ottawa, Canada
If you don't mind paying a little, the best possible option for you is a neck-through neck by Soulmate Guitars.
It may seem a BIT pricey at first, but consider the following advantages:
1. You get to choose exactly what you want, including different laminate options.
2. I haven't seen one in person, but he apparently does flawless work. This is boutique-quality, not just some bolt-on Fender replacement neck. It'll be up there with the quality of necks from $10,000+ guitars
3. A neck-through design eliminates the need for you to make a neck pocket, so the ONLY other 'major' task you can screw up (routing the pickup cavities, etc. are somewhat major, but you can still make a usable guitar if you eff it up) is mounting the bridge, and even THAT task is made easier.
Seriously.
If you want something a BIT more budget-friendly, I STILL recommend getting a neck-through, but order it directly from Carvin instead. You don't get the fancy options, but you save $80 and you get an absolutely top-notch neck.
If I could go back in time, I would have got a neck-through by Soulmate for SURE, instead of what I'm doing. The guitar would have been done by now, and it would have been much better quality. By the time tools and so forth are purchased, it would actually have been cheaper, too.
Greg
It may seem a BIT pricey at first, but consider the following advantages:
1. You get to choose exactly what you want, including different laminate options.
2. I haven't seen one in person, but he apparently does flawless work. This is boutique-quality, not just some bolt-on Fender replacement neck. It'll be up there with the quality of necks from $10,000+ guitars
3. A neck-through design eliminates the need for you to make a neck pocket, so the ONLY other 'major' task you can screw up (routing the pickup cavities, etc. are somewhat major, but you can still make a usable guitar if you eff it up) is mounting the bridge, and even THAT task is made easier.
Seriously.
If you want something a BIT more budget-friendly, I STILL recommend getting a neck-through, but order it directly from Carvin instead. You don't get the fancy options, but you save $80 and you get an absolutely top-notch neck.
If I could go back in time, I would have got a neck-through by Soulmate for SURE, instead of what I'm doing. The guitar would have been done by now, and it would have been much better quality. By the time tools and so forth are purchased, it would actually have been cheaper, too.
Greg
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- KVRAF
- 1820 posts since 28 Mar, 2005
im trying to find a pre-wired pickguard for my 79 strat hardtail. i want a slanted dimarzio "evolution bridge" humbucker (in cream/black zebra), wired to a volume po, no tone knob, straight to the jack. and i need the pickguard in black/white/black 11 hole with beveled edges and great quality.
anybody know where to look for something like that? eh?
anybody know where to look for something like that? eh?
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- KVRAF
- 6490 posts since 14 Jun, 2004 from Rochester, NY
lol LuMo is such a freaking dork
....talented though
is it your boyfriends guitar or yours?
RONC
....talented though
is it your boyfriends guitar or yours?
RONC
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- KVRian
- 975 posts since 31 Jan, 2005
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- KVRAF
- Topic Starter
- 9096 posts since 5 Feb, 2004
I'd like to find someplace that gas some nice inlay work, at least trapezoids but I'd love something with a ivy or morning glory motif. Gotta look around I guess.
I'm guessing I'll probably end up getting a set neck since I'll likely do the body years before being able to afford that neck. I'm also seriously considering just getting one of these instead.
I'm guessing I'll probably end up getting a set neck since I'll likely do the body years before being able to afford that neck. I'm also seriously considering just getting one of these instead.
If you have requests for Korg VST features or changes, they are listening at https://support.korguser.net/hc/en-us/requests/new
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- KVRAF
- 6740 posts since 25 Mar, 2002 from sheffield, england
You still hiding in that closet Ron?rpc9943 wrote: is it your boyfriends guitar or yours?
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- KVRAF
- 2495 posts since 18 May, 2004 from ATL-USA
WOW!!!!braj wrote:I'm also seriously considering just getting one of these instead.
Never heard of them, but they look absolutely amazing.
Triple humbuckers and two outputs to boot!
Of course I have a Jerry bias off the rip!
Anti-aliasing is for "synthmonk%ys".
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- KVRAF
- Topic Starter
- 9096 posts since 5 Feb, 2004
Anyone have any experience with Warmoth components? They have a 'Jerry' type body (WGD) and I could assemble my first guitar without too much hassle.
If you have requests for Korg VST features or changes, they are listening at https://support.korguser.net/hc/en-us/requests/new
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- KVRAF
- 12977 posts since 29 Sep, 2003 from Ottawa, Canada
I don't have personal experience, but on the guitar-building forum I frequent (Project Guitar Forum), Warmoth parts are very highly regarded.
RonC-- I don't know about YOUR personal sphere of influence, but around my neck of the woods, being obsessed with guitars is a whole lot less "dorky" than being obsessed with the things YOU get obsessed with.
Everyone else-- the boyfriend thing is an old inside joke I had forgotten about. It's not particularly clever, but it's harmless.
Braj-- you can outsource the inlay work, but I will warn you that inlay is EXPENSIVE to have done. For just a Les Paul Block inlay on a fingerboard, it's about $110 USD, fingerboard included. For a vine, you're looking at hundreds of dollars. This guy is at the top of his art, but is still accessible (accessible, but not inexpensive) [url=http://www.handcraftinlay.com/index.html[/url]. Warning: that page loads music, which is poor design if you ask me, but there it is.
Lee, that sort of pickguard should be available somewhere, but again it wouldn't be cheap for prewired. I don't know a source offhand, but someone at the guitar forum mentioned above might be able to help you out. On the other hand, it's something that could also be easily homebrewed. Looks like you're going for a bit of an Eddie thing...?!
Greg
RonC-- I don't know about YOUR personal sphere of influence, but around my neck of the woods, being obsessed with guitars is a whole lot less "dorky" than being obsessed with the things YOU get obsessed with.
Everyone else-- the boyfriend thing is an old inside joke I had forgotten about. It's not particularly clever, but it's harmless.
Braj-- you can outsource the inlay work, but I will warn you that inlay is EXPENSIVE to have done. For just a Les Paul Block inlay on a fingerboard, it's about $110 USD, fingerboard included. For a vine, you're looking at hundreds of dollars. This guy is at the top of his art, but is still accessible (accessible, but not inexpensive) [url=http://www.handcraftinlay.com/index.html[/url]. Warning: that page loads music, which is poor design if you ask me, but there it is.
Lee, that sort of pickguard should be available somewhere, but again it wouldn't be cheap for prewired. I don't know a source offhand, but someone at the guitar forum mentioned above might be able to help you out. On the other hand, it's something that could also be easily homebrewed. Looks like you're going for a bit of an Eddie thing...?!
Greg
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- KVRAF
- Topic Starter
- 9096 posts since 5 Feb, 2004
I'm thinking of going with just ovals for the fingerboard ala Alembic, which Jerry's guitars have a connection to.
If you have requests for Korg VST features or changes, they are listening at https://support.korguser.net/hc/en-us/requests/new