EMU 1212m/1616m on Windows 7 - The Thread to End All Other EMU Threads!

[rawl747]

Hi everyone, I'm hopeless. I used 1820m flawlessly for years under win7, then this year updated the system to win10, the config remained the same, and the problems began..I followed a few recommendation here (even changed the .dll files manually -although wasnt a great idea, had to restore the op sys) the card has sound, but the recordings are digitally cracked-distorted, and works only in the A-B channel(front mic inputs). I've tried out every possibilities, changed the sample rate, bit resolution, at one point it seemed helped, but few minutes later every recordings went digitally cracked-distorted again. Any idea?

It sounds to me that your system has the updated Microsoft signed Emu driver installed which only gives you 2 mono or 1 stereo channel of input and acts as a standard Windows "Sound" output for playback. The only way I know of correcting this problem is to replace this "Microsoft" driver with drivers from Creative. This can be done by following the step by step process described in earlier posts. It uses Creative's updated X-Fi sound interface drivers to replace many of the driver files (it is really many more than 1 or 2 dll files) that were part of the original Creative E-mu 64 bit "beta" drivers for these interfaces. These work because the X-Fi card uses many of the same audio processing chips as the older E-mu line does.

The most recent version of the X-Fi drivers (version 0019) should be used with the latest Windows 10 updates.

Many folks here have been successful in re-installing their drivers following the instructions exactly.

Best of luck,
Rawl

[bekesizo]

Dear Rawl, thanks, I just did the whole procedure again, from PowerShell commands to CTASIO64.DLL, even tried out to run EMU_Driver_.ps1 (long + short version as well), the win auto driver update is disabled for the device, and the best I’ve got is that first time after opening an editor I can record some voice clearly, the second time it goes cracking, distorted. Some changes happening after the first asio record use I think(in the registry?)
Also, the device recognized and works only under the name of WDM.

Update: now, if I try to switch to E-MU asio, which I wasnt able to 'till the last night ('no driver' message), I can record well in great quality, but the sound can be heard during playback, if I'm inserting direct asio monitor to channel wave 1/2..this happened before when I first tried to install the card under win10. 1820m I have.

[bekesizo]

From day to day strange changes in my system:
yesterday I was able to record flawlessly, today I got this message. Then I'm upgrading my driver manually(wdma_emu.inf), and everything goes normal again. In gpedit.msc(Prevent installation of devices) I just disabled MMDEVAPI\AudioEndpoints also, who knows..

[rawl747]

bekesizo,

I am out of answers. I have been able to get past the out of resources message and the other issues you have encountered. By the way, only the an ASIO driver will get you the audio performance you need for working with a DAW and the EMU ASIO driver if properly installed will give you the lowest latency of any drivers available for use with your 1820.

I still use the machine that my 1820m is installed into but mostly as a VEP (Vienna Ensemble Pro) slave to the VEP VST plugin in Cubase on my main DAW system. This way these driver issues on that old machine don't even come into play.

I hate to say it but it may be time to move on. I read on one of these forums that some of the key engineers from E-mu went over to RME. I have heard very good reports on their interfaces and low latency.

I myself bought a Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 (1st gen) USB interface when I bought my current DAW machine. I liked that it had a software mixing interface somewhat similar to Emu's PatchMixDSP app and has decent latency. It is still working well despite all the Windows 10 updates. One reason both these brand of interfaces are still working is that these companies still support their hardware with updated drivers.

That illustrates the one failing with the 1820 series. Creative literally abandoned us. shame on them. I will never buy another Creative Product.

Rawl

[bekesizo]

Yeah, I've checked, but RME is a way expensive choice.. I have a Focusrite_Octopre_MK2 which needs a soundcard, so I've found too the Focusrite Scarlett's series the best alternative options, maybe I will purchase one used in good shape, with opto port.
Thanks again for your answers!

[l_maseroni]

Can someone help me with volume levels when mixing using Patchmix? Should I set the volume at 0dB and then adjust the volume levels in my DAW.

My standard practice for volume levels:

- Everything at 0 db, all strips and main mix. I believe this gets the cleanest, highest resolution signal. (I keep all my microphone strips muted unless in use for direct monitoring while recording.)

- If the input is clipping, I adjust the source, not the strips.

- When recording, I usually end up turning the DAW strip down so the source strip is relatively louder, then adjust the overall monitor/headphone volume to taste.

- Use the physical headphone volume knob on the E-MU box to adjust the headphone volume.

- Use the monitor knob to adjust speaker volume.

- Sometimes I'll use the actual Windows volume to adjust outside media that's playing. I just have to remember to put it back later. Generally just keep it 100 and use the monitor/headphone volume like everything else.

To be extra safe, turn your monitor and headphone volume all the way down before putting all strips and the main mix at 0dB. Then with media playing, slowly turn up the monitor or headphone volume to test it out. Should be able to have Windows piped in at 100% and get a full clean signal in the strip without clipping.

I figured out how this should be set up after years of doing it incorrectly in various ways. Now I have full, solid signal and my speakers don't have to work as hard. (I keep them on the lowest volume setting now.) Best advice I can give besides the above - Calibrate your speakers! This was a game changer for me. I was surprised I hadn't gotten this advice before in all my research and learning over the years. Just did this kind of recently after accidentally discovering it. Seems like it should be first in recording tutorials, but you rarely see it mentioned!

I used a combination of the techniques in these two videos to calibrate:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idGvZnSnPhs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZPOIjA52pY

After this process, I get roughly the recommended monitoring volume of 80dB (physically measured in the room from my listening position) with the E-MU monitor knob set at -30dB. Keeping this level as a control makes spotting volume differences in mixes easier. It's consistent, and a lot quieter then you would think. Doing this made me realize why ear fatigue is so easy to get. Keeping it at this controlled level prevents that pretty well, and I've become more sensitive to it now, so I never monitor too loud, ears don't tire as easily, and I only turn up the volume loud on purpose when rocking out.

Note that all of this happens before you even get your DAW involved. Note that mastered tracks will play roughly 10dB louder than mixed (but not mastered) tracks. Most DAWs compensate this so a mastered track outside the DAW is roughly equal to an unmastered track inside the DAW. See the second video for details on this.
Anyway, hope this helps steer you in the right direction!

Brilliant! I did it as is and my sound improved a lot. Thank you!

[rootsandculture]

Hi all, sorry if this is the wrong thread, I could successfully configured the drivers of my old 0404 PCI following the instructions. Now I'm trying to configure my card to achieve the best sound possible JUST FOR LISTENING music.

I have several 24bit 192kHz FLAC files, and I wonder if selecting a new 192kHz session is all I have to do to take maximum advantage of my card.

Thanks

[l_maseroni]

anyone have the plans of the emu 1820? I took it to a technician to see if it can be fixed but here where I live there are not many who are dedicated to this type of electronics. This person reviewed it and found nothing wrong, he tells me that we should try changing the A / D converter. and I wonder if there are plans.
what do you think?

[rawl747]

anyone have the plans of the emu 1820? I took it to a technician to see if it can be fixed but here where I live there are not many who are dedicated to this type of electronics. This person reviewed it and found nothing wrong, he tells me that we should try changing the A / D converter. and I wonder if there are plans.
what do you think?

I don't have any schematics although I do own one of these but I did repair mine by just replacing the physically largest electrolytic capacitors inside the unit. I don't recall if I replaced just one or 2 or 3 since it was some years ago. The largest electrolytic capacitor is there to filter the external DC voltage that powers the unit. Mine was obviously bulging at the top and I think there may have been a slight amount of leakage of the electrolytic fluid out of the bottom. This is a clear greasy looking fluid not the colored glue you sometimes see place on purpose.

This failure mode is very typical of electrolytic capacitors when they reach the end of their life. And like HDD's it is not IF an electrolytic capacitor will fail it is WHEN. I have found that the ones being used now in many electronic devices including PC power supplies are poor quality ones made in China. I highly suggest replacement with US or Japanese made capacitors.

Your tech does not need a schematic to replace this type of capacitor. Unless it has blown up (which can happen) the capacitance and voltage values will be plainly labeled on the plastic wrapping around the metal "can". The capacitance values are in standard increments and as long as the voltage rating of the replacement cap is equal OR GREATER (this is important) to the rating showed on the old capacitor then electrically it will work just fine.

Also, if I am not mistaken this (largest cap) is a radial capacitor meaning that both of the leads are on one end. One lead will be clearly marked (again on the plastic wrapping) with polarity. Usually the negative lead is marked with a minus symbol. The new capacitor MUST be installed with the same polarity as the old.

And finally, the physical size must be close to the same size as the old. Too wide a diameter and it will be touching the adjacent components - not good. Too tall and it will not allow the unit's cover to be put back on.

This is NOT Rocket Surgery. And any decent tech if you tell him you want the largest electrolytic capacitors replaced and/or any electrolytic capacitors that look to be failing as in bulging or leaking, he/she should be capable of that without the schematic.

If that does not solve your problem then you Will need to find someone that knows what they are doing and/or find a schematic. But seriously, with electronics this old, 9 times out of ten, the problem is either one or more electrolytic capacitors that have failed, a bad solder joint or an issue with a socket that gets a lot of physical wear and tear. And with the latter two, often just refreshing the solder connections will solve these problems. Again, no schematic required.

If you do end up having the A/D replaced be sure to have the tech replace the largest 1 or 2 electrolytic capacitors while he is in there. They are definitely at the end of their life.

Rawl

[auron]

I think rawl is right, i would bet on the capacitors. The problem is, they can look swollen (bulge ...whatever) but not neccessarily.

On gearslutz forum there is an interesting thread about this, maybe it is helpful:

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/music-c ... blems.html

[rawl747]

Thank auron.

Even if not bulging, it is worth it in my opinion to replace the 2 or largest electrolytic capacitor in an electronic device this old. It seems that the larger the electrolytic capacitor, the more likely it will fail. And the largest ones are most always associated with DC power supplies. And the voltage and current stress on them is the highest. The 1820m modules don't have the AC to DC portion of power supply circuitry since they receive DC voltage from the card in the PC. But that largest cap is probably the input DC filter cap for the entire 1820m module.

Rawl

[dIEGO S]

Hi
I have installed all the drivers correctly and the 'Memory integrity' is turnned off. It works fine except the phantom power, it doesn't work on my Emu 1616. It doesn't power to the mic.
I also have a friend with an Emu 1820m and the phantom power works when it's turnned off, and when it is on it works incorrectly.

Does this problem have a solution?

Sorry my english, please.

Thanks.

[rawl747]

Hi
I have installed all the drivers correctly and the 'Memory integrity' is turnned off. It works fine except the phantom power, it doesn't work on my Emu 1616. It doesn't power to the mic.
I also have a friend with an Emu 1820m and the phantom power works when it's turnned off, and when it is on it works incorrectly.

Does this problem have a solution?

Sorry my english, please.

Thanks.

My external interface is an 1820m which gets it's DC voltage via the data cable. Doesn't your 1616 require an external power supply in the form of a wall transformer that plugs into the 1616 external dock? If that power supply is not plugged in, perhaps that is why you are having problems with microphone power?

Rawl.

[dIEGO S]

Hi
I have installed all the drivers correctly and the 'Memory integrity' is turnned off. It works fine except the phantom power, it doesn't work on my Emu 1616. It doesn't power to the mic.
I also have a friend with an Emu 1820m and the phantom power works when it's turnned off, and when it is on it works incorrectly.

Does this problem have a solution?

Sorry my english, please.

Thanks.

My external interface is an 1820m which gets it's DC voltage via the data cable. Doesn't your 1616 require an external power supply in the form of a wall transformer that plugs into the 1616 external dock? If that power supply is not plugged in, perhaps that is why you are having problems with microphone power?

Rawl.

I have checked everything. The data cable is well connected and the wall transformer is well. When I turn on the phantom current switch, the LED turns on, but it does not supply power to the micro.

Thanks.

[rawl747]

Well, I have no further suggestions. As I said in my reply, I have an 1820m. I will tell you that I had to replace several electrolytic capacitors in my "dock". The largest acts as a filter for the DC coming into the unit - in my case directly from the 1010 PCI card inside my PC via the data cable.

I expect that there is circuitry inside both your and my docks to take the lower DC voltage supplied to it and increase it to the 48 Volts required to power a microphone. So, that circuit may have a fault in it. As I have posted before, the first place to check inside one of these docks is the several largest electrolytic capacitors. These units are old enough where this is now a common failure point and could effect the 48V mic supply.

Best of luck,
Rawl